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Denovo Audio Knock-Down MDF 0.23 cu. ft. Mini Bookshelf Speaker Cabinet

Denovo Audio Inc
Part #300-7062

Denovo Audio Knock-Down MDF 0.23 cu. ft. Mini Bookshelf Speaker Cabinet

Denovo Audio Inc
Part #300-7062  
Build your own bookshelf or center channel speaker with this precision CNC-cut 0.23 cubic foot MDF cabinet.
Key Features
  • CNC-cut MDF panels for precise fit and finish
  • 0.23 cu. ft. internal volume
  • Build your own bookshelf or center channel speaker
  • Assembles in minutes
  • Made in the U.S.A.
Your Price: $26.98
MSRP: $43.99
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Overview

Denovo Audio Knock-Down MDF 0.23 cu. ft. Mini Bookshelf Speaker Cabinet

CNC knock-down cabinets make it easy for the beginner to end up with amazing finished results without all of the time and effort necessary to perfect your woodworking skills, perfect for speaker builders who don't have expensive tools or access to a woodshop. Assembly literally takes minutes!

During the CNC process, dadoes are cut into the top, bottom, and rear of the side panels to ensure a secure fit while maximizing the gluing surface and making assembly easy. The front baffle features roundovers on the sides for a professional look while minimizing diffraction, and the entire cabinet is made of MDF for an acoustically inert effect on speakers. While designed to be a 0.23 cubic foot bookshelf cabinet, this enclosure can alternatively be laid upon its side for center channel use. 

Note: Panel dimensions and a 3D SketchUp model are included in the Manuals/Resources section. To open and use the 3D model, you need to download and install a program to unzip the file (7-Zip is free and recommended) and then download and install SketchUp to open the .skp file.

Specifications: • Panel thickness: 3/4" • Panel material: Medium Density Fiberboard (MDF) • Finished cabinet volume: 0.23 cubic feet • External dimensions: 11.5" H x 7.5" W x 8.5" D • Internal dimensions: 10" H x 6" W x 7" D • Made in the U.S.A. • Sold individually.

Product Details

BrandDenovo Audio Inc
Part Number300-7062
UPC844632007002
Unit of MeasureEach
Weight8.2

Specifications

Q&A

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30 Questions
Why did you choose this?

I have the 6.5" drivers (with tweeters) that will fit this enclosure perfectly!

I’m using these to house JBL 2405 and 2416 uhf and hf drivers, short horn and L91 lens. These cabinets will sit on top of 2123 10” midrange 0.5F3 cabinets. All that will sit on 3cuft double isobaric…

Used before, easy excellent results. People ask where I bought my finished speakers…

DIY speaker build for 4 inch full range driver.

Will the hivi f5 work in the Denovo Audio Knock-Down MDF 0.23 cu. ft. enclosure ? is so should it be sealed or ported, an with what size port? i'm building the hivi swan m1

Best Answer: I would say a 1.5 inch port would need to be 6.53" long for an F3 of 72 Hz.

what size port tube should i use ?

Best Answer: Mine was sealed with f3 of 120Hz.
Download a free box designer or ask Parts Express.

Would it be possible to use this driver in the .23 cu ft (#300-7062) cabinet with a couple of 4" passive radiators? I'm guessing that with a sensitivity of only 85dB it is going to take 30+ watts to get decent SPL. Thoughts?

Best Answer: As long as you have room for the passives, it depends on what model you use, then yes. It is lower sensitivity at 85 dB, so it is not going to be loud without some wattage behind it as a result.

What would the largest diameter driver accommodated for the 0.23 cu ft ?

Best Answer: 6.5" outside diameter would just barely fit between the radii. 6" would be the limit for the driver cutout.

How is the door attached?

Best Answer: The "door," of course, is the front baffle through which you will mount speaker(s). All other parts are very accurately "dado grooved" for ease of construction. The baffle/door is flat and must be glued (plus screwed/nailed?) for proper sealin. Should you wish future access to the interior, it's best to make the back panel removable with a non adhesive caulking.
gasket for sealing

Is it bad when these two woofers and tweeter are surface mounted and not flush mounted I don't have a router jig or circle jig I have a jigsaw so is it bad?

Best Answer: I'm guessing you want to mount the DC130B and the MDT 29 in the smaller cabinet for the highs and mid-bass and the RS180S in the larger cabinet for bass? I haven't looked at the driver parameters and assume the drivers match the enclosure volumes, but as I said, the crossovers design and driver placement are the most critical aspects. The drivers not being flush mount is for all practical purposes cosmetic and in my experience has no affect on sound. Good luck and enjoy designing your system!

is the front baffle dadoed to fit into cabinet? or just surface mounted?

Best Answer: Front baffle surface mounts to the edge of assembled enclosure. Outer dimensions of the front baffle are the same as the assembled enclosure. I glued mine with Titebond III after my driver cutouts were done. There are dado seams throughout the rest of the box.

Would this work as a bluetooth speaker box?  Dual 3" 2.5W drivers facing forward and a Dayton Audio DMA70-PR 2-1/2" DMA Series Passive Radiator on each end?

Best Answer: Hello,
It depends on what you mean by "work". I question the use of 3" 2.5W drivers. You will get no fidelity from them. This box uses 3/4" thick MSD, way overkill for such cheap drivers. As for the passive radiators, they are used to tune the box frequency and will provide no benefit for the drivers you describe.

I would suggest buying the Parts Express Dayton Audio MKBoom Portable Bluetooth Speaker Kit or something similar. I added the link below but PE may delete. You will save yourself a lot of time, money, grief and regret. Good luck.
Tony M.

https://www.parts-express.com/Dayton-Audio-MKBoom-Portable-Bluetooth-Speaker-Kit-300-7166

If I would be cutting holes for the woofer and tweeter and I am wanting them perfectly centered top to bottom what should I use to draw out to have them centered?

Best Answer: I use old-fashioned drafting tools -- ruler, T-square, and compass -- to lay out all driver cuts. Measure/mark center points at top and bottom of baffle, then draw a pencil line between them. Decide where in the vertical height you want the centers of the driver cutouts and mark those. Then use compass to draw circles of correct diameters for cutouts.

I'm planing to use these for a project should I use a assembled crossover or make my own (you can show me the components) and what port should I use (you can show me what port should I use) I'm using the dayton audio classic series 8 ohm woofer with the grs planar tweeter with back cup. And the other one with the dayton audio reference series shielded woofer with the morel MDT tweeter. Is the 0.23 cubic ft. Cabinet good for the dayton audio 5 1/4" classic woofer and is the 0.56 cubic ft. Good for the dayton audio reference series 7" woofer good for this?

Best Answer: That’s a lot of questions. Let’s start with .56ft3 speaker. The Morel tweeter should work fairly well with the woofer you have chosen. Check the dimensions of the box with the dimensions of the woofer to make sure that you can physically mount this speaker in that box. The speaker may sound a little bright as the SPL for the tweeter is higher than the woofer. Next is the crossover. For the drivers chosen, a 2nd order LR crossing at 2500 Hz should do well. PE has a 2500 Hz LR crossover pre-built (Part # 260-142). For 2nd order LR crossovers, the tweeter polarity needs to be reversed or you will get a drop in output over the frequency band where the tweeter and woofer blend. I do not know if the polarity markings on PE 260-142 takes this into account or not. I would ask tech support on that. Finally, the port for this should probably be tuned to between 45 to 50 Hz. PE part # 260-407 cut to about 4” should work well.

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Manuals & Resources

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