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TC Sounds Epic 12" DVC Subwoofer

Brand:| Model: 3370-00
Product Video
Overview
The EPIC 12" subwoofer is designed to be lighter, smaller and ultimately more affordable without deviating from the TC Sounds world-class displacement and low distortion performance guarantee.
Highlights
  • High-temperature low eddy current stainless steel voicecoil former
  • 2 + 2 ohm dual voicecoil
  • Light-weight Aluminum wire
  • 8" linear spider suspension with large integral lead-wires
  • 140 oz. magnet motor structure
  • Large 1" symmetrical XBR rubber surround for beyond 2" peak-to-peak travel
  • Large anti-flux-modulation shorting ring
Part # 
293-650
Weight: 22.4 lbs.  
IN STOCK
List Price$299.00
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$193.33
Part # 293-650
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Product Details

TC Sounds Epic 12" DVC Subwoofer

The EPIC 12" subwoofer is designed to be lighter, smaller and ultimately more affordable without deviating from the TC Sounds world-class displacement and low distortion performance guarantee. Matched with just 300 watts, the EPIC will surprise even the most critical audiophiles with substantial, ultra clean low frequency bass, but pair it twice that power and it will take you to the next level! Used by many high-end home audio companies in their best products!

Note: All specifications are with voice coils connected in series.



Product Specifications
  • Nominal Diameter12"
  • Power Handling (RMS)500 Watts
  • Power Handling (max)2000 Watts
  • Impedance2+2 ohms
  • Frequency Response15 to 150 Hz
  • Sensitivity86.6 dB 1W/1m
  • Voice Coil Diameter2"
  • Magnet Weight140 oz.
Thiele-Small Parameters
  • Resonant Frequency (Fs)24 Hz
  • DC Resistance (Re)3.66 ohms
  • Voice Coil Inductance (Le)2.24 mH
  • Mechanical Q (Qms)7.8
  • Electromagnetic Q (Qes)0.42
  • Total Q (Qts)0.39
  • Compliance Equivalent Volume (Vas)3.22 ft.³
  • Mechanical Compliance of Suspension (Cms)0.27 mm/N
  • BL Product (BL)14.8 Tm
  • Diaphragm Mass Inc. Airload (Mms)163.5g
  • Maximum Linear Excursion (Xmax)18.1 mm
Materials of Construction
  • Cone MaterialAluminum
  • Surround MaterialRubber
  • Voice Coil FormerStainless Steel
  • Magnet MaterialFerrite
Mounting Information
  • Overall Outside Diameter12.6"
  • Baffle Cutout Diameter11.1"
  • Depth6.2"
  • # Mounting Holes6
Optimum Cabinet Size (determined using BassBox 6 Pro High Fidelity suggestion)
  • Sealed Volume0.79 ft.³
  • Sealed F353 Hz
  • Vented Volume2.26 ft.³
  • Vented F330 Hz
TC Sounds Epic 12" DVC Subwoofer
  • BrandTC Sounds
  • Model3370-00
  • Part Number293-650
  • UPC844632082948
  • Product CategorySubwoofer Drivers
  • Unit of MeasureEA
  • Product Rating
    (13 Reviews)
  • Weight22.4 lbs.
  • California Prop 65

    Warning: California residents only. Please note per Proposition 65 that this product may contain chemicals known to the State of California to cause cancer and birth defects or other reproductive harm.

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Reviews

TC Sounds Epic 12" DVC Subwoofer
TC Sounds Epic 12" DVC Subwoofer is rated 4.6923 out of 5 by 13.
Rated 4 out of 5 by from behemoth tapped hornBought 12 units to build 3 huge tapped horn subs for a nightclub. Each cab has 4 drivers , arranged as two opposing push-pull pairs. End result is roughly 105dB sensitivity down to 18Hz for each cab, and a full 140dB of output in the room with flattest response and the lowest distortion I've ever seen from a sub design. Two drivers failed on day 29 of use, but since the build took two months, PE says they need to go back to TCSounds. So far we've been unable to get a response from TC, we have ordered and installed two more to bring things back up to full operation, but we're a bit concerned about factory support for the long-term life of the build. That glitch aside, the performance of the system is no less than stunning.
Date published: 2014-01-22
Rated 3 out of 5 by from Good Sub, Poor QCThese subs are a good value. However there are similar priced competitors out there.My 3 stars are because the one I received had all 4 solder joints fail within about an hour of use. The connections I am referring to are where the wire comes off the spider and into the tubes of the push button terminals. Because this is an easy repair I gave 3 stars instead of 1.I will re-solder them however this should not have happened in the first place. Other than the solder joints the sub is built like a tank for the price paid.I would still recommend this sub to anyone looking for a DIY project.
Date published: 2013-07-19
Rated 4 out of 5 by from Some things you should knowLarger version of pictures available at www.trbailey.net/speaker/Article/A couple things to be aware of:1. This woofer takes a long time to break-in. I ran it for over 50 hours at 14 volts (using an ACVM measured at terminals) @ 24 hz and it's still not finished breaking-in. I don't think it needs that much voltage for break-in. You can probably get away with 5-8 volts but it does take time. Here's a link to an excellent paper on the topic: www.gr-research.com/burnin.htm2. The published specs are measured at a rather high voltage according to the MFG(2.83v). I was unable to measure a correct fs until I ran the voltage above 2 volts measured across the terminals WITH THE REFERENCE RESISTOR IN PLACE when taking an impedance measurement so you'll need at least 10 watts of amplifier if you plan on measuring T/S parameters, probably more if you use a 20+ Ohm resistor. (Reminder to T/C Sounds, 2.83 v is 1 watt into 8 ohms, 2.0 v is 1 watt into 4 ohms)3. The cone of this woofer is made of rather soft aluminum so it dents easily. While tiny dents won't have any effect on how it sounds, large dents will. They might also weaken the overall cone structure causing possible stress cracking and eventual failure. BE VERY CAREFUL WHEN BURNING IN THIS WOOFER! Don't place anything on the cone while it's quietly bobbing at 24 Hz. Even a few ounces might cause dents that could lead to cracks and eventual failure that I don't think will be covered under warranty.4. Very well constructed woofer basket. Large stacked magnets including a nice rubber magnet cover. Larger than usual spider aligns without adding undue mechanical resistance, noise or reflections. Voice coil leads are woven into the spider fabric preventing them from adding noise or getting snagged. Advertised as XBR rubber surround. Don't know what XBR means but it looks like butyl rubber which is good. I've never seen a foam surround last longer than about 10 years. I suspect it's this rubber surround and the larger than usual spider that take so long to break-in.5. The woofer comes with 2 1/2" wood thread hex cap mounting screws and a hex wrench to use to tighten them. If you don't want to use wood thread screws to mount the woofer (not the best option in MDF but fine for hardwood) I suggest you get a set of #10x32 hex head cap screws and hurricane nuts for mounting. Parts Express "Cast Frame #10-32 Speaker Mounting Kit" PN# 260-776 works very well. Before mounting get a tube of Cold Weld Epoxy in one of those premix kits and a #10 washer that fits the # 10 screw. Remove the large rubber gasket from the woofer prior to drilling or marking holes. Make absolutely sure you drill the holes perpendicular or you'll have difficulty getting the nuts to start which is the #1 reason the hurricane nuts rotate or push out. Be aware that the clearance is quite small between the woofer basket and the mounting holes (1/4") when drilling pilot holes. Center the woofer and use a 1/4" drill bit for the pilot holes. Place a couple dabs of epoxy on the large flat part of the nut being careful not to get it in the nut or on the screw prior to pressing it into the pilot hole, then use the #10 washer and the wrench that comes with the woofer (fits PE mount kit nuts too) to pull the hurricane nuts tight against the baffle. Let it set for a few before moving on. This procedure will guarantee a trouble-free woofer mount that will hold very tight and allow easy removal for testing or finishing.I'm using this woofer in a 3.1 Cu Ft enclosure (3/4" MDF with 1 1/2" front baffle) with a 4" flared, dimpled port tuned currently to 27 Hz (11"). It will probably need to be shortened to tune it a bit higher when the woofer stabilizes in a couple months. My predicted alignment was 29 to 30 Hz port tuning. It's tuned too low because one can always shorten a port but lengthening it is a bit more involved. Also, undertuning (according to box volume) reduces the acoustic output at and below the port frequency which can help smooth things out of you get too much LF (a pronounced "thump" or "boom") when placing the sub behind a couch or against a wall or in a corner. If you tune it lower than predicted and put the box in a corner you can probably get it flat to at least 25 Hz and probably lower due to "room gain" in a house. To use room gain and under-tune the enclosure I suggest starting with a full length port (18") and tape the internal flare in place temporarily while you experiment. 18" will tune a 3 cu ft box to around 23 Hz. If you don't hear any undesirable "thump" but bass output is low you'll need to shorten the port (port gain is pulling your acoustic output too low). Cut off an inch at a time and listen for a day or two until you get rid of the "thump" at port cutoff or the bottom end picks up, depending on whether it's in a corner or up against a wall, how far from the wall etc. You'll probably need to double or triple the sub volume while you test so you can hear what it's doing at port cutoff but taking the time to "tune" the woofer to it's intended location can go a long way towards improving the overall sound quality.Performance:I'm using a flared, dimpled port (Shameless plug for Madisound) with this woofer and so far I haven't heard any port noise at all. The dimpled port seems to be really slippery to the airflow and the flare increases the area where internal volume meets external volume, reducing, even preventing port compression and / or "whiffle" noise. I don't have anything for comparison but I suspect the dimples have little effect on a port this small. They would probably be much more effective on a 6" port, if you were able to use one with this woofer. The idea behind the dimple is to increase the surface area of the port tube forcing the air that flows along it to form a variable pressure gradient which breaks up the "laminar" air flow, forming a slipery barrier between the static port surface and the violently moving air in the port. It definitely works on a golf ball...This guy can really kick up a storm. If you opted for a plate amplifier and plan on mounting it inside the cabinet or even attached to the cabinet, DON'T. As well made as the plate amplifiers are they still tend to rattle when shaken at low frequencies. I'm using a BASH 500 and its way too much for my apartment living room. It won't even match up with my 100 watt home theater with the volume above 1/4 on the amp dial but that means it's running cold with plenty of overhead in the power supply nearly all the time. I could easily place this thing against a window and literally blast the window across the street. As far as sound quality, it's not a "fast" woofer in a ported enclosure and I haven't heard it in a sealed or alternately loaded alignment so I can't comment except with what I have. Both ports and passive radiators cause a 180 deg phase shift as the air compresses in the port or at the surface of the PR (time delay as the air compresses). This phasing continues to occur in the air as the wave expands from the port or PR causing what we know as "group delay". The frequencies below port cutoff arrive not just late, but later and later with lower frequency until they reach the port tuned frequency. Group delay (misalignment in arrival time with frequency) is the main reason a ported alignment sounds "loose" or "boxy", even "boomy" compared to a sealed enclosure. Having said all that; It sounds like a big ported box. You can literally hear the waves build inside the box and once I got all the rattles out of the amp I think I need to reinforce the 3/4" MDF to make it stiffer. If you have the option build the enclosure using 1" MDF, add an internal brace and use mounting spikes to isolate it from the carpet. It does make a difference.Usefulness:Bottom line it augments my home theater very well. It can be difficult to reduce the upper frequencies if you don't have a separate sub woofer amplifier but my plate amp has two permanent 2nd order filters, one at 220Hz and another at 330Hz so the LFE output from the receiver is seeing a reduced upper range to begin with making it easier for the YPAO system to match the woofer with the satellites. I'm using this with a Yamaha RX-V373 5.1 home theater receiver. It has software based crossover settings. The YPAO is a microphone you plug in that sets distance, levels and Xover point for you. I am able to use this woofer crossed as low as 40Hz (reduced output) and it still sounds good at the 60Hz crossover, the 80Hz crossover and the 90Hz crossover settings. The 100Hz crossover setting and above makes it obvious you're using a sub for LF but below that, it makes little other noise so the woofer does not give up it's location easily which makes it great for home theater.POWER:This woofer could easily funcion in a room three times the size of my living room. Probably up to about 50' square or more. For rooms larger than that you'd want a pair of them or better yet, build or purchase a 12" three way for front speakers and use a dual 8" or a 5" line-array for the center channel and a duplicate of the center channel for rear imaging. Unless you can afford to build/buy 4 12" three way speakers and have 1000 watts in your DTS processor.
Date published: 2012-11-27
Rated 5 out of 5 by from Working great.I'm using 2 of these in modified h-frames to support 8 inch full range tang bands. They are fantastic. So clear and precise. These are such a huge step up from my old ported sub mud motor. For the first time, I can discern individual deep bass notes. I highly recommend.
Date published: 2012-11-26
Rated 5 out of 5 by from Bought 2a only needed one!Have a few crown amps around ... started with a bridged channel pair on a cts 4200, clipped easily ... bought a ce4000 and a single channel does 1200w rms which is muuuuch more like it. These can take far more than the 500 rms! VERY CLEAN also ... best sub for the money anywhere period. 3ft^3 tuned to 24hz has serious output!
Date published: 2012-02-26
Rated 5 out of 5 by from First Sub Build (or anything sound related)As title states, this is my first ever build. With the help of a friend (thanks bubbles…you know who you are). I picked up a Bash 500 amp, TC Sounds Epic 12" DVC Subwoofer, 3/4 MDF and some misc. hardware. Movie room is medium sized room with 4 walls 38mhz. Vented enclosure is 3 ft^2. No bracing, no stuffing. Inside is sealed with truck bed spray in liner & silicone. Vent is ~2x5x12 1/2. Speaker wired in series 2 ohm each coil to match the amp’s ~4 ohm. The whole process was a learning experience for sure. A lot of reading and a few “ah ha” moments.A small separate enclosure was built for the amp plate. It will go on a rack or hidden so kids don’t mess with it. The back of the sub and the amp enclosure have “Round 4-1/2" Speaker Terminal with Insulated Binding Posts”. Also, I ran 12 awg from speaker to the amp. On the amp I replaced the wires so the entire path had 12 awg. I think the plate came with 18 awg – I do not recall.When it was moved from the garage to the movie room and hooked it all up I was a little nervous. Prior experience was with home theaters in a box my wife would drag home…anyway. This was more “involved.” At first I think the kids were playing video games. Meh. Then I found some “house” dj mix … holy freaking bananas when I turned it up I felt like I was getting punched in the stomach! It was so clean. Last night I watched Tron on blue-ray and it sounded fantastic. It has been a couple days now and I now need to upgrade my center…then fronts…then rears….This was a good start. I will clean up the outside in the comming weeks. The inside is what counts.I still can’t believe it (I apologize for the gushing). Bottom line is that for this noobie and I am truly amazed!
Date published: 2012-02-20

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TC Sounds Epic 12" DVC Subwoofer

Repairing a dead Velodyne ULD-12 down-firing 12" sub by installing a Dayton SPA-250 plate amp, also want to replace the driver. Calculated internal cabinet volume is 1.86 ^ 2 feet. This will be a sealed cabinet when completed. Would this work 4 music?

Asked by: TheHarbinger
Yes this woofer will work very well in that volume sealed.
Answered by: MattP
Date published: 2014-09-25

are these being replaced with another model? why are they on clearance?

Asked by: scott_fx
Our TC Sounds products are being discontinued. We do not have any TC drivers to replace them, but we do have many other excellent subwoofer options available.
Answered by: MattP
Date published: 2014-09-17

WinISD gives 2.81 ft^3 @ 28Hz as optimal enclosure size. PE indicates 2.25 @32Hz. Which will provide better response in car? 2007 Civic Si sedan...in trunk, rear facing, 500w RMS. If PE will respond better, what are port specs? Thanks!

Asked by: Javi
Either design will work for this application. If you want more output the smaller box and higher tune will be best, if you want smoother response and a more SQ type sound, the lower tune will be better. For the smaller box, a dual flared 4" port that is 12" long will give you a 32 Hz tuning frequency. The larger box will require a 14" long port for the lower tune.
Answered by: MattP
Date published: 2014-07-17

I am buying this driver - with only 11gms per Tm, 500W in a 2.5 ft^3 sealed box (Bessel: Qtc=0.577) did not graph over-excursion with SpeakerBuilderPro2.0. What is the displacement volume of the driver? i.e. # of liters unit takes up in box.

Asked by: FuzzyPAR
This river displaces 0.142 cubic feet, or 4.026 liters of volume.
Answered by: MattP
Date published: 2014-02-13

What size box would I need for four of these in a shared chamber wired at 1ohm? Going into an SUV with two subs facing up and two firing rear

Asked by: KingJames
These woofers will work well in 1-1.5 cubic feet sealed each, so anything from 4-6 cubic feet will work well for all four.
Answered by: MattP
Date published: 2014-01-13

I would like to know if this TC sounds 12inch sub would sound better with a passive radiator rather than a port. Ports unload the driver below system resonance, passive radiators don't - I think.

Asked by: FuzzyPAR
The TC Sounds drivers work well with passives simply because they usually require a small volume vented box, with a port length that is not practical. Passives work no different than ports both above and below tuning frequencies. A port uses a mass of air and a passive uses a diaphragm with weight added to it to achieve a given tuning frequency.
Answered by: MattP
Date published: 2014-01-13

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