Parts Express Sound Solutions V1 - page 20

Parts & Accessories
Prepping the plate for the
I decided to use the Dayton
Audio #091-602 black anodized
aluminum binding post plate as
the chassis for this amp project.
It’s sturdy at just under 1/8" in
thickness, has a built-in gasket,
and just plain looks sexy with
that brushed aluminum finish—
like a real plate amp should!
I made a template on the computer and
used it to mark the center locations of
every hole, which I center-punched, then
drilled with a 1/8" bit before going up to
the final hole size.
This helps keep the
bit from “wandering”
when drilling the
larger-sized holes.
Additionally, there
were a few tweaks
that needed to be
done after drilling the
holes: the 1/8" signal
input jack hole required
being drilled out slightly
from the back side in order to reduce the
thickness of the aluminum plate, since it
didn’t have enough threads showing on
the front to secure it adequately. Also, the
main volume potentiometer
on the amp board has a
protruding tab for which
I needed to make some
clearance on the aluminum
plate, to allow proper flush
Soldering wires to the amp board:
After applying blue painter’s tape on the
plate to protect it, it was time for some
soldering! I used 24 gauge hook-up
wire for all wiring except the speaker
connections. The most delicate soldering
that needed to be done was to attach
three wires to the subwoofer level
adjustment pins that are mounted on
the amp board. A 3-pin plastic connector
socket on the board accepts a plug. No
Recently, while browsing through the Parts Express website and looking at the
new products, I saw a nice 2.1 amplifier board that looked particularly interesting.
The #320-608 stated a 15 watt per channel output for the stereo section, and 30
watts for the subwoofer portion. Its small size piqued my interest even more—at just
under 2" by 2" square and only 3/4" thick, it seemed to be tiny enough to fit where
other amps could only dream of going.
plug was included with the amp board, so
I removed the jumper, carefully pried the
3-conductor plastic cover by using a small
flat-edge screwdriver, then pulled it up and
off with needle nose pliers—leaving the
three pins exposed.
To attach my wires to these pins, I twisted
each around a paperclip to make a type of
tube, slipped that tube over the pin, then
soldered them
in place. I bent
them apart just
a bit and added
some heat
shrink tubing.
Next, I
soldered red
and black wires
to the amp
board to get
power to it, and
then I soldered
three wires to
the signal input jack on the amp board. At
the suggestion of someone on the Parts
Express Tech Talk board, I braided the
input signal and subwoofer volume wires
in an attempt to reduce noise. It must
have helped because this final version is
dead quiet.
Mounting the components:
Starting with the most robust and working
my way to the more delicate, I installed
components in this order: subwoofer
potentiometer, binding posts, DC power
input jack, on/off switch, input signal jack,
amp board/potentiometer, and then finally,
the LED.
Each component had clear silicone caulk
applied to the base of its mounting shaft
to make an airtight seal when installed in
a speaker. I also used blue thread locking
compound to prevent nuts from vibrating
loose over time. With a Q-tip dipped in
alcohol, I cleaned up the silicone and
thread locking compound from the front of
the amp board as I went.
I chose the #090-496 input jack as
it was the correct size for the 16V power
supply I wanted to use. You will need to
match this piece to whatever your power
brick requires.
As extra protection against those areas
shorting out, I installed two 3/8" long
layers of heat shrink tubing on the part of
the binding post shafts that could touch
the aluminum plate.
I also
put some
tape on the
plate where
the mounted
amp board
could touch,
in order
to protect
against the
possibility that any part of the amp board
would short to ground.
Build the “Micro-B” 2.1 Plate Amp
“Tiny enough to fit where other amps could only dream of going.”
Zarbo, Jr.
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