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New Year, Great Gear Knock Down Cabinets
The Syphons

The Syphons
Design Goals
Driver Selection
Enclosure Design
Enclosure Assembly
Crossover Design
Conclusion
Parts List
About the Designer
- Enclosure Construction & Assembly -

I will start off by saying that I don't really expect anyone to replicate this speaker exactly, but the construction approach is actually not too hard to execute, and could be used with other systems.

The basic cylinder was built out of standard 8" nominal cardboard concrete forms, available at either home supply stores or from commercial concrete suppliers. For the best sonic performance, the walls should be as thick as possible, but the principal can work even with thinner walled tubes.

To create rigidity for the cabinet as a whole, I created a rib-like structure on the inside of the cardboard tube. The ribs were 1-1/2" wide by 3/4" thick, running the entire length of the tube, with 12 ribs per cabinet. These ribs were attached to the cardboard with polyurethane glue. On the inside, the ribs were supported by a series of wooden rings that fit snugly and were glued tangentially to all of the ribs. The result was a stiff skeleton similar to the construction used on ships or canoes.

To create the scoops, I first built a jig out of 1/2" PVC pipe, which was tensioned to create the scoop profile. This profile was traced carefully onto the cylinders, wherein the lines on the cylinders were cut freehand with a reciprocating saw. The curved baffle was constructed out of three laminations of 1/4" plywood. Each lamination was applied and secured before the next was attached. The baffle was applied oversized, with final trimming coming from a reciprocating saw, handsaw, and sanding block. Since much of the final shaping was done by hand, it took several passes of sanding and body filler to finish things up.

Since I was unable to obtain thick-walled tubes due to time constraints, I had to apply some extra reinforcement to the tube walls. After the ribs were in place and the scoop was cut, I mixed up a gallon of epoxy resin, and poured half into each cabinet. I carefully spread the resin and rotated the cylinders to cover the entire insides of the cabinets with resin. Once hard, this created a hard shell that was rigid even between the ribs.

The finish on these speakers is a Formica brand brushed aluminum-look laminate. It is not a true metallic laminate, but merely a silver-colored laminate with a texture that is somewhat brushed looking. Does it look like real brushed aluminum? No. But, it does look somewhat more aluminum-like than standard gray laminate. From my research, there are several true metallic laminates available, but they are quite costly and cannot be curved very much, if at all. The laminate was applied with contact cement and trimmed by router, laminate trimmer, and a hand file.


 
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