Millennium III

Millennium III
Design Goals
Driver Selection
Enclosure Design
Enclosure Assembly
Crossover Design
Conclusion
Parts List
About the Designer
- Enclosure Construction & Assembly -

The first thing I did was cut out the front and rear baffles for both enclosures. Now I had a template for exactly how wide I needed to make the narrow edges of the 3 curved inner braces, one for the top, one for the bottom, and one between the woofers. Before I went further, I cut out the recess and driver holes in the baffle because I would not be able to after it was mounted. For the braces, I cut out 6 square pieces with one dimension that matched the depth I needed. Using the front and rear baffles, I marked on opposite sides of one square piece where the curved edge starts and ends. I drew a 1'-8" radius curve along both sides starting and ending on those marks. I had to cut an 8" diameter hole in two of these braces for the middle section which was done using the router and circle jig. I cut the sides about 2 inches larger than I needed in both directions so I had enough play. Then I cut 7/8" deep grooves lengthwise in each piece 1" apart. These were glued on and trimmed with the router. This enclosure is approximately 2.1 cubic feet after displacement, and is tuned to 27 Hz, with an F3 roll off at around 37.

The MTM cabinets are much simpler, and are basically a 2-way bookshelf speaker with my version of a time aligned baffle. These are also ported due to the large cabinet size. The box volume is a hair under .5 cubic feet, with a tuning of 52 Hz and an F3 of 55 Hz. Although, this doesn't matter much because of the bandpass filter on the mids that get cut off around 450 Hz.


 

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