Based on the off-axis performance of the woofer and midrange drivers as well as the impedance resonance of the midrange driver at about 350hz, crossover frequencies of 750hz and 4500hz were selected. After extensive computer modeling various crossover designs were considered for their impedance profile, phase relationship between the drivers, and overall response characteristics. The final crossover design takes advantage of the natural coincidence of the midrange driver's and tweeter's acoustic centers when flush mounted and uses low-order acoustic slopes to achieve near time and phase coherence along the listening axis starting at about 1500 hz. Coupled with flat frequency response across the spectrum from about 45 hz to 20+ khz, the final crossover results in a deep, wide soundstage with precise imaging.
Also, thanks to the wonderful properties of the HiVi ribbon tweeter, the high-end sound is simply spectacular. Those of you who have never heard a good ribbon driver will be amazed at how, when properly used, these tweeters can produce exceptionally smooth, detailed, open sound without harshness or sibilance. Further, the Veritas highpass consists of only a single, series capacitor in front of the tweeter. This is something that would not be possible with the less-expensive versions of this driver being sold at various places -- those drivers do not exhibit the exceptionally smooth response of the retail version of the RT2C. However, with this tweeter being controlled only by a single components, the openness and purity of the sound is worth the added cost. Additionally, having a only a single component made this a prime opportunity to evaluate different capacitors.
For the Veritas, I strongly recommend using the AudioCap Theta capacitors. These capacitors were tested and compared to Solen, Dayton, and other brands. Despite their high cost, the Thetas were, by far, superior at reproducing detail, ambience, and presence within the music. Probably because of the high-frequency extension of the RT2C, the high-quality capacitor is able to elicit performance that is otherwise lost by other brands. The real question is whether it's worth an extra $20 per speaker for the Audiocaps. To that question, I answer a firm "yes!" because you would justify spending an extra $20 for a tweeter that sounds this much better, why not spend that money on the capacitor that feeds it?
The midrange filter for the Dayton 285-010 driver employs a 2nd order highpass and 3rd order lowpass in a cascade bandpass topology, although not necessarily to achieve particular acoustic rolloff rates as much as to achieve the desired rates with specific phasing and impedance properties. By controlling the driver phase using the second series-capacitor in the lowpass section of the bandpass filter, the coincidence of the acoustic centers of the tweeter and midrange driver are able to perform with a high degree of time and phase coherence, allowing the Veritas to produce incredibly smooth midrange and high-frequency performance with an exceptional soundstage and imaging.
Finally, the lowpass crossover for the 10" woofers was chosen for the combination of simplicity and to achieve the desired acoustic rolloff rates. As well, due to the geometry of the Veritas speaker, the design axis and crossover design summation distance (i.e., the distance at which you're predicting the response of the speaker) had to be carefully considered. Two major issues influenced this aspect of the design -- the relatively poor vertical dispersion of planar drivers and a response peak in the 3-4khz region of the Dayton 10" woofer. If measurements are made at a summation point too close to the speaker along the design axis, the results are skewed by the fact that you are evaluating the woofer considerably off-axis where the peak in the woofer's response will not be adequately considered. For the Veritas, the design axis is the midpoint between the tweeter and midrange driver and the summation distance for the design was 2.5m, which reflects a typical listening distance.
Building the crossovers for the Veritas is not terribly difficult. The highpass, consisting of only a single capacitor, represents the ultimate in simplicity. The lowpass uses only three components in what is called a "strange second order" topology. To most, it will resemble a first order crossover with a zobel. Regardless of what you call it, it's not hard to build. The picture at the right shows what the components look like when laid out prior to assembly. Notice that the 47 uF non-polar electrolytic capacitor is shown with the 0.47uF Dayton bypass capacitor connected in parallel with it. The two AudioCap Theta's are shown in the upper left corner of the photo connected in parallel to make the required 1.47 uF capacitor.
The next step is to prepare the remaining capacitors. All of the capacitor values for this project are achieved by combining multiple capacitors in parallel. While sometimes this is done to produce a capacitor with a lower ESR, in this case it was done merely to achieve the required component values as closely as possible. To the left, you will see the that the 6.2 uF and 7.5uF capacitor are combined in parallel to make the needed 13.5 uF capacitor for the bandpass filter. Also, a 30 uF capacitor is combined with a 1.0 uF capacitor to make the 31.0 uF value; and also a 10 uF capacitor joined with a 1.5 uF capacitor to arrive at 11.5 uF. The schematic below shows where each is required in the crossover.
Once the components are prepared, the parts should be arranged by the section of the crossover network they will be used in. The photo to the right shows the components separated by section. The parts are then mounted on a suitable surface that can be inserted into the enclosure. I prefer pegboard, masonite, or a similar, rigid material. The lowpass section is shown on the left with the components affixed to pegboard using hot-melt glue.
On the right is a photo of the bandpass filter components arrange on pegboard prior to soldering. This is just one possible arrangement for the components. I later moved the components around in a more compact arrangement and mounted them on a smaller piece of pegboard. It's more important, however, to make sure that the components are firmly attached to the mounting board and clean connections are made between them than it is to have a pretty looking board.