Dayton SWC-2 2.0 ft³ Subwoofer Cabinet

There are several bad things about this cabinet. One - why does it cost over $80 to ship it? It's not that heavy. Two - Why isn't the baffle removable with the B-Rex system like in the smaller Dayton cabinets? It would make drilling the woofer hole much easier. Three - why is the baffle board only 3/4 inch thick? If it was an inch thick the woofer could be recessed without weakening the mount, which would also solve the next problem. Four - why oh why is the grill baffle over 1.5 inches wide? I now have to modify it to fit over my 15 inch woofer. It is finished nicely, and to drill the baffle frame without destroying the nice cloth cover is going to be a major challenge. If the frame was a normal half inch wide, it could fit over the woofer without any problems. I now wonder if the 3 cuft box would need frame modification if I wanted to put a 18 inch woofer in it.

The cabinet is finished very nice, a black crinkle paint that looks great. The grill has rounded corners and a high quality look. The internal bracing and gluing was seamless, no gaps or problems like the other reviewer had. I was able to mount the 15 inch Quatro sub without any problems, and it looks and sounds great!

Overall, a nice cabinet with a few small problems that can be overcome if you have skill and patience.

rather than a full review, I want to offer some tips to those who might purchase this product:

Firstly, the box is made of MDF which is about an inch thick. This material is very rough on saw blades or routing bits, so you may need to have several at the ready when you go to cut it.

Secondly, the box has no external markings. There is a piece of wood inside which braces the top and bottom, but this is not labeled or marked anywhere on the product.

The side with the grille is obviously intended to be the front, but if you wanted to use a down-firing design, you would have to spend some time reworking the box. If you intend to use more than one cone, especially if you are using passive cones, make sure to cut a whole for a cone or amp on the front or back FIRST because only 4 of the 6 faces are available for mounting face-sized parts. You could have ports or smaller passive cones on the top and bottom faces in theory, but you still would not want to cut into any of the sides other than the front and back so as to not cut into the brace.

Also, the pegs that mount the grille are fairly fragile. Mine broke off in shipping, but I suspect this is rare. The frame of the grille is made of MDF as well, which means that the grille is fairly heavy. If you consider replacing the pegs with another style of mount--say, magnets--keep the weight of the grille in mind as it may damage or destroy your new mounting hardware. I went the magnet route, and even though I used 3/4-inch ceramic magnets, the grille does not want to stay attached. I may revise my design with another set of magnets in addition to the 8 I already used.

WHEN I RECEIVED THE CUBE I WAS IMPRESSED BY THE MORE THAN AMPLE PACKAGING. NEXT WAS THE KNUCKLE RAP TEST WHICH WAS SOLID YET ECHOEY. THE LOOK IS CLEAN AND WELL MADE. INSIDE THE CUBE IS ROUGH AND DOESN'T REPRESENT THE QUALITY. POLYURATHANE GLUE IS SLOPPY WITH SEAMS AND JOINTS EXPOSEING GAPS AND VOIDS. THIS MAY REQUIRE SOME CLEANUP BEFORE APPLYING YOUR FOAM DAMPENING MATERIALS AND CONTACT ADHESIVE. ANYWAY THIS IS STILL A BARGAN DUE TO THE FACT THAT IT IS ALREADY BUILT! I SUGGEST FIRST LINING THE COMPLETE INTERIOR WITH A 3/4 INCH OR THICKER BARRIER FOAM TO TAKE THE ECHO OUT OF THE ENCLOSURE. THEN 2 1/2 INCH CONVOLUTED FOAM AND 1 POUND OF ACOUSTA STUFF FIBER. MY ACOUSTIC SUSPENSION ENCLOSURE IS THEN DEAD AND VIBRATION FREE. THE PLATE AMP THAT I CHOSE IS OTHER THEN WHAT PARTS EXPRESS OFFERS AND OFFERS AN EXCELLENT ALTERNATIVE WITH THE 12 INCH REFERENCE SUBWOOFER. HAVE FUN,SAVE TIME AND MONEY,AND FEEL PROUD THAT YOU DID IT YOURSELF.