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Dayton Audio SD315A-88 12" DVC Subwoofer
dual driver configuration
I was wondering how these drivers would perform in a dual driver setup. Either tandem or a push-pull similar to a M&K subwoofer setup.
I actually just set these up in tandem. They work quite well. I have the coils on each woofer in series and the woofers to the amp in parallel. I'm using the Dayton SA-240 to power them and it works perfect.
Date published: 2012-05-01
I don't see any recommended enclosures in the PDF.Would like to have more information on compatible enclosures.Thanks!
BassBox Pro (referenced below for your convenience) suggests a 2.4ft³ ported enclosure for the lowest frequency response. With a 4" port about 17.5" long, you can expect an F3 frequency around 36Hz. A 1.0ft³ sealed enclosure would provide an F3 of approximately 60Hz.
Date published: 2012-08-12
SD315A-88 in 1 CF Sealed Box -- Add Ports?
I have an old Triad powered subwoofer that uses a 12" driver in a 12"x12"x12" box. It was designed for music only, but it's also just an old design. I bought this driver to use in it but I'm pretty sure I won't get much low frequency out of it. Would you recommend adding one or two small ports to the box? They'd have to be 2" with a very small flange due to space issues. I don't expect 35 Hz out of this, but I would like to add a bit more low end.
This woofer actually doesn't look bad in this enclosure. I recommend two 2" ports 9" long. That tunes it to roughly 40hz with an f3 of 47hz and a pretty gradual roll off. Looks like it would sound pretty awesome and power handling won't be a problem in that size either. The more you can put to it the better. You won't run out of excursion till below 30hz with as much as 300 watts on it from what I can see.
Date published: 2012-06-02
Enclosure help please
Hi,I have a question regarding two of these Dayton SD315A-88 12” subs (part # 295-488) that I purchased probably 10 years ago for a subwoofer I built to use in my RV. (I had to I/D them from the literature, the subs only say DVC series, and they're 8 ohm, I think these are the ones I have, although they were over $150 each when I got them#At the time, I came into the store and spoke with the salesman who recommended 1.0 cu/ft sealed enclosures for each. I built a 1” MDF cube divided internally bottom front to top rear 1.3cu/ft per side, and installed one sub front firing, and one down firing, and filled with loose polyester "pillow" type stuffing. The box was also oak veneered and finished to match the RV.Now that I'm wanting to use it in my home stereo, in what is probably a 15x25 room with brick walls and tile floor on concrete slab, I'm noticing quite a lack of low frequency response that wasn't apparent in the RV where everything vibrated.I'm driving each woofer independently with both voice coils paralleled, from separate channels of a DH500 Hafler amp #400w rms per channel @4ohms# from the mono output of a DBX 120 subharmonic synthesizer to fill in the really lows and try to make up for what the subs lack.The cabinet is very nice, so I hate to discard it and start over #and can't afford to right now anyway#. IS THERE A WAY TO MODIFY THE EXISTING ENCLOSURE TO OPTIMIZE THE LOW FREQ. RESPONSE?I was thinking about possibly cutting a hole into the dividing wall, and mounting the lower woofer into it in a push-pull arrangement in the upper #forward firing) chamber, or else if that wasn't satisfactory then removing the second woofer altogether and using it as a roughly 2.4 cu/ft either sealed or vented enclosure.You all have more experience than I do, so I thought it best to ask before I start cutting up the enclosure. Can anyone give advice as to the best way to proceed?Thank you very much!
The box is too small - way too small. In a small listening room (RV or even more so: a car) the low-frequency enhancement (gain) made them adequate. Boxes are cheap and easy to build - build a bigger box. IF you insist on keeping the box, go with one of the two woofers with no internal baffle (better yet: build another one just like it for the 2nd woofer.)IF possible, mount the woofer IN one of your walls (infinite baffle), where they will take up ZERO floor space and will give a low-end response equal to the free-air resonance of the driver itself. I'm a BIG fan of having an entire adjacent room as the "box".
Date published: 2012-08-13
I have a self assembled home stereo that uses digital sources in the following manner:- Digital stereo input from Toslink or AES/EBU digital stereo into a Behringer DEQ2496 Digital Equalizer followed by a Behringer DCX2496 Digital Crossover (both purch from PE). I built a VCA controlled five channel volume control to regulate volume into two 125 watt stereo amplifiers and a powered sub.- Speakers consist of Magneplanar MG-II drivers with the treble section removed (midrange) combined with Bohlender-Graebener model RD-50 drivers (tweeters) in custom made walnut planar frames. The powered sub is a 15" Definitive unit.- All crossover and equalization is handled in the digital domain by the Behringer units.This systm sounds fine except that there is frequency hole from 100-200 Hz and the powered sub sounds muddy anyway. The Maggies just don't work below 200 Hz.I'm thinking of building two tower sub units to stand next to/behind my existing monoliths #Remember Kubricks 2001?#, perhaps 5 feet tall with two 12" drivers each. These will replace my existing sub.The Dayton Audio SD315A-88 and DCS305-4 look like good candidates. My inkling is to go with the vented 2.4 cuft enclosure for the SD315A-88 that you recommend. In the DCS305-4 review "JS - 32169" cautions about using the driver above 100Hz because of a resonance at 150Hz, which I also see in the SD315A-88 frequency response curve. So I ask: Are these drivers OK for my application up to 200 Hz, bearing in mind that I have digital equalization capability? Do you prefer either of the two drivers or recommend another driver?Thanks in advance for any help.
Either of these woofers are capable of playing up to 200 Hz without an issue. Since you have the DEQ2496 any resonance or other break-up modes will be controlled and should not cause a problem.
Date published: 2012-08-13
Polyfill and acoustic foam
I am building a 2.4 cu. ft. box with the 4" X 17.5" port for this subwoofer and from the previous answer, am going with the Dayton SA100. Do I need to use polyfill or acoustic foam? How do I know when to use either or both as this my first build.Thank you for your answers!
That's part of the fun!Simply put: Polyfill will make a subwoofer perform as if it were in a larger enclosure by slowing sound waves as they pass through it. You would use this for sealed enclosures as most poly would move and get blown out ports if not attached.Acoustic foam is generally used on a cabinet with bare wood inside that will reflect sound internally, and create unwanted resonances and phasing. Sound absorption material will help reduce these reflections and provide a more accurate sound.A lot of sub cabinets use thicker poly that is available as a thick sheet that can be glued to the internal surfaces of the cabinet, as opposed to being stuffed in a sealed enclosure.Hope this gives you a start.
Date published: 2012-09-25