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Dayton Audio RSS315HO-4 12" Reference HO Subwoofer 4 Ohm
what is yhe smallest enclosure this sub will perform in?
got a trunk box 20*20*6. Just built it in spare tire area...Would this woofer do well in a box that small with polifill? the current 12inch powerbass does the job but i want something more high end...
You don't state the wall thickness, or whether your stated measurements are OD or ID, but assuming it's OD, and your wall thickness is 3/4", that gives you about .9cubic feet, which is just about perfect for this driver, which likes a box in the .6-1.0 cubic foot range. Loosely stuff it with Polyfill (sealed box please!), and it should perform excellently.
Date published: 2013-03-07
HO vs. HF
I need some help choosing between the HF or HO. I have a 2010 Chevy Crewcab and want to run dual 12's under the rear seats. I'm having trouble picking between the HO and HF. The HO runs 700 watts RMS and has a xmax of 12.3mm and the HF runs 400 watts RMS with an Xmax of 14.3mm. I'm confused, I was assuming the HO would push more air and be the "louder" of the two? Also, do you recommend ported or sealed and what do you think the min cubic feet would be with each. Thanks
I'd go with a sealed box and the HO is better sealed. The HF has a thinner cone and is reported to "oil can" (flex) in a high power sealed alignment. HF is great vented though, but much larger cab. Look at The Drake: http://www.parts-express.com/projectshowcase/projectindex.cfm using the same driver. I have two drakes. I'd use it in a .9-1.1 ft3 sealed cabinet with lots of power. In home use it needs some eq at 30hz. In a car, you will get plenty of gain to compensate for the small enclosure.
Date published: 2013-08-21
Cabinet Size for 4 of these
I have two questions what size cabinet would I need for four of these in a sealed cabinet that would be suited for both music and movies and two how would the sound of the subwoofer mesh with a pair of Polk Monitor70's?
Sealed cabinet with a Qcb of .7 (optimally flat), 2.465cu.ft., approx. .6cu.ft. per driver, as stated in the other answer.For a Qcb of .6, which to my ears sounds better, and has a slower low end roll-off, 4.135cu.ft., approx. 1cu.ft. per driver.Anything between 2.4-4cu.ft. would perform just fine.Get your phase and levels matched, and it should match up with your Polks with no problems.I must point out it is unlikely you need four to do the job, two would be more than enough, and the HF version of this woofer, while needing a somewhat larger box, would extend further into the low bass. The HF is the sub I use, and I could ask for none better. I have one placed in a 3.3cu.ft. vented box, powered by a BASH300 sub amp, and it rattles the walls. F3 is around the 20Hz mark in my room.
Date published: 2013-07-06
Are these drivers usable in a bass Horn ? If it's the case, what sort of Horn will do the job ? An example using 2 drivers in each horn ?
Can such horns deliver more than 100 dB SPL up to 200 Hz ?
I would not recommend this driver for a horn design. A great contender would be the Eminence Lab 12. There are many designs that involve this woofer around the net, I would recommend a Google search for some great ideas for a horn. Unfortunately we have no way of modeling one.
Date published: 2013-04-10
I wanna build a box with this sub and a 500 watt amp and wanna use it for movies and music and play down into the 20's ported or sealed.
To the right of the product is a specification sheet. On that are all the thiele/small parameters you will need to plug into a box calculator. You can find many on the internet for free. You can then look at various alignments for ported or sealed. For the most accurate bass - go with a total Qts of .707. This driver will most likely deliver the best bass performance with a ported enclosure. Don't expect anechoic response much below 26hz as this will be an impedance peak. However, real world, in room performance should be flat to about that point if properly designed. Keep in mind while this sub will go low - loudness is another factor. A single 12" is fine for a small room. For a larger room, 2 would be in order. Small being in the order of 12 x 15 with an 8 foot ceiling... larger being 16 x 20 with a 9 or 1o foot ceiling... Low bass is great - but you also want to move a lot of air - and the structure of the walls and placement effect the performance. And concrete floors make for more accurate bass - but wood floors interact and can make sound effects such as explosions more involving... Goof luck with your project.
Date published: 2012-08-22
I am considering buying one of these drivers to use in a custom-built subwoofer enclosure. The reason for the custom enclosure is that I want to build a low-height cabinet so that I can "hide" it under another piece of furniture. There is enough space to make an enclosure with an internal volume of 1.70 cubic feet. But I only have 8" of vertical height to work with, and by the time I add up 3/4" for the top of the cabinet, the mounting depth of the subfoofer (plus some small amount of clearance between the rear of the driver and the inside of the cabinet top), I only have about an 1-1/2" between the face of the woofer (mounting flange) and the floor (hardwood floor by the way). Is that enough distance, or will the air moved by the woofer bounce back from the floor and interfere with the cone movement? Is there any rule of thumb to use when determining how close to a floor or wall or other surface a woofer can be positioned? I could use multiple 8" subwoofers, for example, that have a shallower mounting depth, thereby allowing for a bigger vertical distance between the woofers and the floor, but I would still be wondering how much space is enough?
There is no rule of thumb for this, however 1-1/2" may be pushing it. I would recommend about 1/4 the driver diameter, in this case no less than 3-4". You may be farther ahead using multiple smaller woofers to achieve good results.
Date published: 2012-11-01