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Dayton Audio RS52AN-8 2" Dome Midrange
What size cut out hole do they fit?
This midrange requires a 4-1/8" diameter cutout with small notches for the terminals on either side of the opening.
Date published: 2013-01-10
Can the grill and faceplate be removed?
I want to "rear mount" the driver with out the faceplate and grill. I hope to duplicate the 4 holes in the stock faceplate in my baffle. I can't find a comment or picture confirming that the faceplate & grill can be removed, replaced or discarded. Thank you in advance.
They can be removed, but this midrange should not be operated without having them in place. The faceplate holds the voice coil/diaphragm assembly in place, and the integrated grill protects the fragile dome. Removing them and playing this speaker will void your warranty. Also, having the speaker dome totally exposed is a bad idea in general, as these domes are pretty fragile.That being said, your plan may well work, as long as the baffle is flat, flush, and holds the voice coil/diaphragm assembly firmly in place just like the faceplate does. Make sure that the baffle does not touch the dome, or it will damage the speaker.
Date published: 2012-07-12
Is it okay to run these drivers without a high pass filter?
No. Most dome-mids like running from around 800-1kHz and up. This unit is finicky, and requires a fairly steep slope to keep it happy at 800 Hz.
Date published: 2013-04-14
What type crossover?
I am planning on using these in a DIY speaker build in between a pair of Dayton 7" drivers 40-2200Hz, and a Vifa Tweeter 1500-40000Hz. I was thinking of crossing at 750Hz and 6000Hz. What order crossover would work? Do I need a second order, or can I get away with a first order crossover for this? Is this even a good plan?
Normally in a 3 way you want to cross your woofers lower, and your tweeter higher. The way you have it planned all of your speakers would be covering the range of human voices, and that is not a good thing. You want to allow each section to cover the frequencies that they handle best. Crossing your mid over at 700 and 6k is not a bad plan, but you want to keep your woofers and tweeter out of that range a little more.Since each driver produces sound beyond the crossover point, there is constructive interference between the speakers over a broad range. The order of your crossover and the natural roll off of the drivers determine how broad that range is. Knowing this, you may want to leave some space between the crossover points to prevent that constructive interference from making the complete speaker louder around those points. So, maybe something like crossing your woofer over at 500 Hz, your mid in at 700 Hz, your mid out at 6 kHz, and your tweeter in at 7 kHz, would allow your finished speaker to perform at a uniform volume across it's full range. Mind you, this is just an example, not a suggestion.If you want to really nail down how to make this speaker sound good, I suggest looking into some modeling software. Check out the Tech Talk forum for some good threads on how to do this.If you plan on just doing this by ear, I would suggest that you use 1st order crossovers to save on material costs, as you will probably need to make serious revisions to your design them to sound good.
Date published: 2013-09-16
I've read the various threads in the TechTalk Forum and the other questions and reviews here. I intend to use these in a car door, actively crossed where it is happy, around 800Hz and 5KHz give or take. My question is does this driver need any additional passive attenuation or notch filtering in this frequency range or is it smooth enough as is? I could also lower the low pass point to avoid any nastiness around the 5KHz point.
The natural response of the driver is very smooth however this is on a flat infinite baffle so this will change once installed in a car so it will still need to be tweaked by ear after final installation. The crossover points you have listed are fine and using active crossovers you should have a steep enough slope to get rid of the breakup issues above 10k.
Date published: 2013-09-06
would this be a good replacement or substitute for a md500 celestion dome midrange?
would use it on a pair of celestion ditton 66
In the Ditton 66 the MD500 covers from 500Hz-5000Hz. This midrange can cover that range of frequencies and is the correct impedance rating, but you will have to do some work to get them to sound right. I don't have specs on the MD500, but the Ditton 66 as a whole is rated at "90db with 4.8 watts of pink noise", according to the manufacturer. This mid is rated at 91db with 1 watt of power, so you will need an l-pad to level match this. This is a fine sounding midrange, but it may be difficult to get any mid range to fill the gap of the MD500. You may get a better timbre match with a soft dome mid range. One to consider would be the Tang Band 3" dome, as it's lower fs may allow it to cover that low a bit more comfortably.See below a for suitable l-pad, and that Tang Band mid.Also:Whatever you do do not alter the cabinets or crossovers! Leave them intact as much as possible and don't make any irreversible changes. Those speakers are worth a lot to the right person, do not mess them up.
Date published: 2013-06-06