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Dayton Audio RS225-8 8" Reference Woofer
Building a subwoofer with this speaker?
I want to build a subwoofer for my covered outdoor patio. I want to build an enclosure for Dayton RS225-8 (or what is a better choice) and basically have this speaker down firing. I am looking to power this built subwoofer with two channels running bridge of my Crown cts8200. Do you think that will work decently?
I SEE PROBLEMS AMP DOES NOT BRIDGE MONO BELOW 100 HZ NOT FOR SUBWOOFER USE!! AND THE 8 YOU HAVE CHOSEN IS NOT A SUB TYPE WOOFER IT HAS FREQUENCY RESPONCE TO 2 K YOU SHOULD USE SUB WOOFER CLASS FOR MAX LOW END BASS AND 4 OHM FOR MAX POWER EFFICIENTLY FROM A SUB TYPE AMP ... AND WHILE I SHATTER YOUR IDEA COMPLETELY !OUTDOOR SOUND PRODUCTION OF BASS IS IN FREE SPACE, NO ROOM REFLECTION WARMTH OR CABINET LOADING IN CAR SUB'S THE OPEN SPACE WILL REQUIRE A 12 , 10, OR LARGER TO PRODUCE THE BASS OF AN 8 IN THE HOUSE... A VENTED CABINET FOR MORE EFFICIENCY AND PUNCH TO THE OUTDOOR PROBLEM CAN HELP!
Date published: 2013-10-29
work with Infinity Reference Two speaker as a replacement of woofer?
The surround of the speaker (driver?) is disintegrating. So I am considering replacing it.Here is some spec of the speaker:Frequency Response: 50Hz - 25kHzCrossover Frequency(ies): 300HzSensitivity: 90dB (1 watt/1 meter)Nominal Impedance: 6 ohmsPower Rating: 15 - 100 wattsWoofer: 8" (20.3cm) IMGTweeter: 1" (2.5cm) PolycellAs far as I can tell, there is no vent hole in the box, so is this "sealed"?Alternatively, should I get a "surround" repair kit and fix what I have?
To replace your driver with the RS225-8 would just be a wild guess. You need to remove the good driver and physically measure your cabinet to see what will fit into your existing cutout than test your driver to get it's true specs if you want a close match. If you're really attached to these drivers and how they sound you could replace the surround, seen them lately for about $25, need accurate dimensions so you get the right kit. P.E. can usually help you with that also. Sense you're considering replacing I'll assume you're not that attached. You must replace both if you go with the RS225-8. You'll want to keep your system balanced and my experience with them is they're such a huge upgrade you'd be kicking yourself for only doing one. My actual measurements, calculations and experience show they work equally well in sealed or vented boxes. Just adjust your Impedance and sensitivity and you'll be good.
Date published: 2012-12-02
Vented towers using this driver?
Hi, I would like to run three of these drivers in parallel in a 150L vented enclosure tuned to 30hz. They will be low passed 2nd order at 300Hz. Firstly what would be an ideal/good port setup for this? And second I know these drivers are more aimed towards sealed enclosures, will i experience any problems from running them in a vented enclosure? i would really prefer vented because then i should be able to get performance which does not require a sub.
These speakers should sound good in a ported or sealed enclosure. Depending on the kind of sound you are looking for, you will need about 5 ft^3 of enclosure volume for each cabinet. I am not 100% sure but I ran some numbers and you could use a 3.5" diameter port with around 8" length. This is really going to depend heavily on the building method you use, because you will need deep enclosures to accommodate the ports. This should result in a Resonant frequency of around 30 hz, a 3db down point of around 32 hz and a Qtc rating of .707. If you give me some particulars of the project I could give a better solution.
Date published: 2012-02-08
I may have gave the wrong internal cabinet dimensions in my previous question.How would 2 of these work in a 2.20cuft cabinet? 10.5x10.5x34.5What size tubes would I need?Thanks
Use a 3" port, 7.4" long to tune the enclosure to 30 hz.The part #268-350 3" flared port would be a great choice for this.
Date published: 2012-08-28
Has anyone used these in a sealed enclosure? What was your preferred enclosure size?Was the transient response improved compared to a ported enclosure?Would like to use one of these for a two way rebuild I am doing, and I HATE the sound of ported enclosures. I can not stand even a hint of boominess.Thanks for your help.
A lot of these drivers have been used in a variety of ways. Some drivers work in both sealed or vented enclosures - others have specs that lend them to one cabinet style only. If you are looking for audiophile quality bass. You want a sealed enclosure (no disrespect to those rare ported gems out there). But sealed is the easiest to make work. Using the specs of the driver and an online speaker box calculator, set for a total Qts of .707 for flat bass. It will tell you the F3 or -3db down point. If you are using a separate subwoofer you can even opt for the more critical .5 Qts as the you may not be using the lowest register of the driver. Now boominess comes from a lot of things - type of cone material. Construction of the motor, quality of the cabinet etc. I have used Morel MW 164s in many projects. They are an extraordinary driver and go deep while having the ability to match planar magnetic ribbon midranges. If you want accurate bass - do your homework and open your check book. There are no short cuts
Date published: 2012-11-13
How high can this woofer be crossed over without issues?
Can this woofer be used as a mid-woofer and safely crossed at 2000 Hz in a two way with the RS28F-4 without problems?
That should be fine as long as the slope is steep enough to get rid of the cone breakup around 6-8kHz. usually a 3rd order will work for this.
Date published: 2012-11-22