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Dayton Audio DCS385-4 15" Classic Subwoofer 4 Ohm
I purchased 2 of what I believe to be this 'classic' subwoofer, some 15 years or so ago. One is still functioning. The other just recently blew. I'd like to know if the voice coil / basket assembly can be repaired? Please let me know. Thanx.
This is a better question for our speaker repair department. Please send them an email with pictures of the woofer for identification, firstname.lastname@example.org.
Date published: 2014-07-08
How well would this enclosure work for this driver?
I just built a 8.26 cu ft box specifically for this subs younger brother and it turns out I made a mistake in my calculations for enclosure volume and I'm not sure If I want to add a port quite yet to fix my volume error. How would this driver perform in my 8.26cu ft sealed cab? What do you suggest I do to either my cabinet or which driver would work best in my enclosure as it is now?
If you want to get the most out of this driver in that size box, tune it to about 21 Hz (for example, by adding a couple of 3"dia x 7.5"long ports) and you should be OK. Your volume is not that far from perfect.
Date published: 2012-10-29
What would the internal volume and port size be fo this tuned to 18-20hz. i would like to go with the round port
This woofer really likes a sealed box more than a vented box, however if you are not too worried about volume than 10 cubic feet with a single 4" diameter, 4" long dual flared port will tune it to 20 Hz.
Date published: 2012-09-30
Considering two of these in a 40x40x16" vented coffee table
Basically two mirror image 20x40x16" enclosures (really one with a divider) should net about 6 cuft each. With a 4" precision port at its full length, I'd be going for LLT alignment at between 16-17hz. Any thoughts on this idea?
Always star with the ideal - .6 x 1 x 1.6 on your box - the golden rule... You can vary somewhat - but be in the ballpark. Make sure your volume and port work for the T/S of the driver you select. I think the issue here is the coffee table concept. These were popular about 30 years ago. Of course, subs then weren't as good as they are today - especially with THX's influence. (Save Velodyne and a few very high priced items...) You will not get the best bass possible with a coffee table placement. Bass needs distance to develop. It's all about wavelength. Also, room loading is important. Psychologically you want a sub up front to the left or left center, unless you are using multiples etc... It also effects time domain... So - given that - I suggest against the coffee table. Never mind your favorite beverage will be on the floor more than it is in your hand. Have fun with the project !!
Date published: 2012-07-06
What is a good size sealed enclosure?
Just wondering what size sealed enclosure would make this sub sound best with classic rock. I would like it to be punchy and not boomy.
To achieve a Qtc of .707, a 7.39 cubic foot enclosure would be required. You could get away with 5.5 cubic feet by using polyfil to make the enclosure appear larger to the woofer. For a slightly higher Qtc of .85, a 3.2 box with polyfill would do the trick. Hope this helps.
Date published: 2012-06-18
How well would a pair of these work in ~20cf IB application?
While it may (or may not) work reasonably well, I would recommend going with a true infinite baffle driver for an infinite baffle application. This Dayton Classic has a Qts of 0.43, which really isn't high enough to be well-suited for infinite baffle. I've referenced our 15" driver that is optimized for this kind of application below for your convenience.
Date published: 2011-07-05