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Dayton Audio BPFI-G Fully Insulated Binding Post Pair Gold
I accidentally damaged the plastic keyed washer on a set of these. Are there any replacement parts available?
Unfortunately no, we do not have replacement parts available. Purchasing a replacement pair of binding posts in the event of damage is the recommended course of action.
Date published: 2015-01-23
Is it possible to get a mechanical drawing of this part?
Unfortunately we do not have a mechanical drawing available for these binding posts.
Date published: 2014-08-13
Are these insulated so that they can be mounted directly to metal?
Yes, these are designed to be used with aluminum mounting plates so they will mount directly to metal without a problem.
Date published: 2014-01-21
Which spade lugs to connect to amplifier?
I would like to connect the amplifier to these binding posts by using cables terminated in spade lugs. Please note that I AM NOT DISCUSSING the connection between the inner end of the binding post to the crossover or speaker driver. I am discussing the OUTER end of the binding post, where the cable from the amplifier connects to the speaker enclosure.Which of the various spade lugs sold on Parts Express can I use to connect to these binding posts from the OUTSIDE?
The spades need to have a fork ID of 5/16" and OD no larger than 1/2".
Date published: 2013-10-30
Which spade lugs?
I wish to use crimp-type spade lugs to connect speaker wires to these terminals. Which of the spade lugs (or even ring lugs) of Parts Express will fit on these terminals?
These terminate in "solder-on" gold plated tabs. I don't think you can use standard spade lugs without opening up the crimp to accommodate their thickness. They were designed for a high wattage connection to the speaker load cables. Usually soldered in place. You could use a good quality nut/bolt connection, but it wouldn't be as good as a solder job. See suggestions.
Date published: 2013-10-29
Is there a minimum cabinet panel thickness?
I have an approx 1/16" (or 1.5mm) thick panel, but cannot tighten these. It appears the plastic keyed washer is too thick - it protrudes slightly on the inside of the cabinet. Am I doing something wrong? The best solution I can think if is to sand the washer to make it thinner.
I'm not sure that I understand your question. So we are on the same page--I hope you have inserted this 5 way binding post set, so that the tabs with the [wire hole] goes toward the inside of the cabinet. Run your wires to the crossover by soldering the wire [usually inside of the hole]. If I have misunderstood--then sand the plastic washer off a bit. These are insulated from the +/- terminals so there is no wrong way.
Date published: 2013-09-26