Is there a piece to protect the little pc board
Unfortunately we do not have anything specific for this although we do offer many project boxes that will work.http://www.parts-express.com/cat/project-boxes/1450
Date published: 2014-01-22
I want to cut the usb power cable and connect the wires from the BT module power plug side to my 5 v power supply.
i know black is gnd, red is +5v. and white/green are +-data. is the white wire in the usb cable unused here?
Yes there are only two conductors being used in this USB connection.
Date published: 2013-08-08
Will it stay on
Will this go into a sleep mode or auto shut off mode or does it stay on? I am thinking of putting this is an enclosure mounted up high and will be plugged in to an AC outlet all the time. How do you pair with this? Is it a code so that I can easily use another device to pair with it?
Yes this device stays on as long as there is power going to it. This pairs with any bluetooth compatible transmitter just like any other bluetooth device.
Date published: 2014-01-25
Is it possible to control and stream music from one source (IPHONE) to two of these BT-1A at the same time?
An I phone can pair with multiple devices, however it cannot be more than one audio device.Best of luck.
Date published: 2013-05-11
Powering this unit
Hi all, this looks like exactly what I need, but I am unclear about powering. I would like to run this in conjunction with either the T-Amp Tripath TA2024 2x15W Audio Digital Amplifier Board or the Dayton Audio DTA-2 Class T Digital Audio Amplifier Module, both of which are sold on PE. Those modules runs off a 12v 2a power supply. Is there any way for me to power the bluetooth off either of these amps? And if so, how would I do it? I'm a novice so being tender and patient would be appreciated! :) My main objective is to seal this bluetooth receiver away inside the ipod dock I'm making and not have to deal with it anymore (in otherwords, having only one power line coming out of the dock). Is this possible? If so, how? Thank you so much!
You will have to use a voltage regulator to drop the input voltage down to 5VDC for the bluetooth module. With this, it is a very simple connection.
Date published: 2013-05-01
Two part question: Battery power and Wired audio connection
Hi, very new to experimenting with electronics and i'm trying to accomplish two things with the BT-1A that I could use some advice on. First, I would like to be able to power this by battery, preferably a rechargeable Li-Ion type of battery. I'm not sure how to connect the +/- of the battery to the BT-1A. Has anyone done this? Second, I would like for the BT-1A to output to two different sources, first source headphones by 1/8 male jack, second source an amplifier connected by audio wire directly.
This is possible, although you will have to essentially cut the USB connector off the cord and splice the power into this. You will also have to split the output using a standard Y cable for both of your sources.
Date published: 2013-04-29
Why is it cutting out
hi i bought 2 bt-1a bluetooth input adapters I hooked the usb up to an iphone 110v to 5v 1amp usb and the aux to an aux input on my stereoit will randomly cut out allot , even with the phone stationary 3 feet away it seems to to it with both bt1a's i have. they will some times comeback on some times i have to disconnect power and delete and reconnect tried it on iphone 5 ipad 2 MacBook pro
Try reverting back to iOS5.something. I have had issues with bluetooth connection on iOS6. With your MacBook pro, try turning off your bluetooth mouse and/or keyboard.Best of luck.
Date published: 2013-03-18
Hooking this up as another input
To power this unit, using a DTA-2 amp (with a 12v power source) and a 7085 5v voltage regulator would I remove the USB "end" of the wire and wire the stripped end up to the 7085 or could I connect directly (solder leads) to the Bluetooth board itself? I want the ability to have both a bluetooth and hard wired connection to the amp. Hopefully this is enough info. Thanks.
The 7805 Voltage regulator works better with some other components around it. I have attached a photo below of a circuit I like. You will find all sorts of variances (Different value caps, Types of Caps, With or without Diode) on the web but this one works well for me and all the parts are sold at PE :) Make sure you Heat Sink the 7805!Before you go cutting wires and soldering, I suggest testing the circuit with the plugs intact. This way you do not void your warranty. Build the regulator on a breadboard or wire wrap it up.Once you are sure that it all works, then you can decide on de-soldering parts or soldering to leads. Both have draw backs. When soldering wire to the leads watch for bridging and shorts to other parts of the board. When de-soldering parts off the board, you need to be careful not to apply too much heat for too long, or you can de-laminate the pads from the board. This can ruin the whole circuit. I have definitely said some choice words a time or two trying to hack boards.Please check out PE Tech Talk for more guidance and suggestions.Best of luck
Date published: 2013-02-23
Laptop is asking for drivers
I paired up with my laptop and it is asking for drivers for the BT-1A.I'm running Win 7 Prem 64.Are these drivers available? Is there a generic set I can use?
I did a little searching and it seems that people have lots of problems pairing in Win7. I have not tried the following method myself, but it seems to be what you are looking for.Taken from a post by Rajiv Singh Suwal:- Download the 'Windows Mobile Device Center' ( current version is 6.1 ) (Cannot provide link due to PE filters) ,this works for both Vista and Windows 7. I've tried it on both.- Install the downloaded software but it may not look like it worked on Windows 7 PCs. Vista automatically configures the settings on the bluetooth devices but for those who have Windows 7, here are the things you should do:- Go to 'Device Manager' from 'Control Panel' -Or- just right-click on Computer Icon and choose 'Properties' and then click on 'Device Manager'.- You'll see an 'Unknown Device' named 'Bluetooth Peripheral Device'- Right-Click it and click on "Update Driver Software" -Or- anyway you find it easy to bring up the Update driver window.- Click "Browse My Computer for Driver Software" button.- Click "Let Me Pick from a List of Device Drivers on my computer".- Select 'Bluetooth Radio' from the list if it asked you to select and then in the next window, it will show a list of drivers with Company Names in one list and Drivers in another. In the Company List choose 'Microsoft Corporation', not only Microsoft.- From the drivers list there may be one or more drivers with the name "Windows Mobile-Based Device Support" with different driver versions. Select one or the latest.- Ignore any warnings and keep pressing next and then Finish at last. If all goes well, the last screen will show the message that device driver is successfully installed.Now, after manually updating the driver for your bluetooth device, in 'Device Manager' when you click on 'Bluetooth Radios', it should display one more item which will say 'Windows Mobile-based device support'.There are few more things that you want to pay attention to. If you have already added the device in your 'bluetooth device list' that didn't work, then remove the device and add it again. After you add it, you might need to restart the computer if it gave you a connection problem error message.Every PCs that had Windows 7 and Vista worked after installing this software and I hope it will work for you too.
Date published: 2013-02-19
How is the range with this thing? I have the old version of this receiver (the BT-1: http://www.parts-express.com/pe/pshowdetl.cfm?&Partnumber=320-352), and got very poor range -- max of about 20 feet line of sight, and about 10 feet or less if someone walked between the receiver the and Bluetooth device. Would anyone be able to do a direct comparison between these 2 versions of this receiver? Both of them claim the same thing in their specs: "Class 2 range of up to 15 meters (49.2 feet)", so I'm guessing the range would be similar or the same.
This newer version seems to fix the problems with the older model (I own two). First off there are input jacks instead of the flimsy wire coming off the board. This one seems to have only one LED (hard to tell with SMT and the picture). Also this one has mounting holes.Most importantly it looks to have a better pcb printed antenna (the square wave looking traces at the bottom of the picture). The older version only had a rectangle to the side. I have been looking for a pcb fractal antenna design to help improve reception with my previous purchases. However, if someone could verify that this one has better reception as it appears, I might just upgrade and save my scrap ccb for another project.
Date published: 2013-02-15
How would I connect this into a car stereo without an AUX in? Car stereo does have a cassette in dash and a CD changer in the trunk.
Trying to add this to a car stereo so I can pair it with my iPhone. Car stereo (factory) is descent and I'm trying to delay buying a new head unit with iPhone or BT controls. Thanks
There are two ways you can wire this to a factory radio without AUX or bluetooth capability. You can use a cassette adapter, or an FM transmitter. I would recommend a cassette adapter for better quality and less hassle.
Date published: 2013-02-11
Volume very low any way to boost it before it goes in my receiver
Try using other inputs on your reciever. Check the volume on your device (phone, computer, etc). Try hooking it up to another receiver or amp. Look to see the your reciever's threshold for line level input is lower than 1 volt. Generally, most consumer receivers should have no problem with 1 volt. If you are using pro gear, I would suggest an RCA to XLR converter. PE sells one, check below. Also could be your power supply.
Date published: 2013-02-11
Pin-out soldering question
I'm trying to make a custom "box" for a project I'm working on, where I solder the audio outputs of this module onto the backs of the RCA audio inputs on the Sure TA2024 15x2 amp (Model: AA-AB32155), all to be contained inside a small project box. Would this work? What are the pin-outs? Would I still also be able to use the RCA inputs from outside of the box to run a plugged in source such as an iPod (when the bluetooth module is powered off)?
I have used the older version of the BT-1A in a similar configuration. It seems this newer has a 3.5mm TRS (headphone jack, TRS refers to the physical description of a jack, Tip, Ring, and Sleeve). You could use a 3.5mm to RCA cable to connect to the amp board and a headphone splitter to have access to another input. I would suggest running these inputs to a 50k dual audio taper potentiometer as a volume control before inputting to the amp. (The Bluetooth module makes some beeps at full volume as it powers up and pairs with a device).For a typical pin out for the head phone jack, just do a search for 'TRS Pin Out'. The Tip is Left, Ring is Right, and Sleeve is Ground.Just two suggestions.1.The Bluetooth Module runs at 5 volts and the amp 12 volts. You will need a way to step down the voltage and regulated it. PE sells 5volt regulators or you could use a universal laptop power supply. They have two voltage outputs.2.The Project Box you have chosen is a hair too small for the amplifier board. (see my screen capture below) It is still possible to use, but you will have to make modifications.
Date published: 2013-02-07
How to eliminate noise?
I just got this, and am running power off of the USP port on the TeiNuro 2.1. It has a lot of constant noise. When I'm playing music at a moderate level, it drowns out this noise. But it's annoying enough that my wife doesn't even want to hear the unit on... And I don't only want to use it for higher listening levels. Are there some tricks to eliminate this noise? Ferrite beads, or what-nots?
Ground loop isolator has worked for me.Part #: 266-007
Date published: 2013-04-09
Powering this as a freestanding unit?
I would like to build this into an amplifier I'm building as an input. Unfortunately, the low voltage source that I'm using to power the amp is 12 volts.Any suggestions as to a cheap power supply I can add into the project to power this board? And any idea how clean it needs to be? I can always add my own filtering if needed.
I'd use a voltage regulator like a 7805 to step 12v down to 5v. It normally gets power from USB, which I would guess has some noise, so I bet you'd be fine grabbing 12v from whatever's powering your amp.
Date published: 2014-01-25
Does either the power cord or audio cord help in BT signal reception?
I plan to put this into a small boom box that I am making (3/8" Baltic Birch). I am concerned if mounting inside the case will diminish or interfere with the BT signal reception strength. And if it does, will increasing the length of either the power or audio cord help?I've also got a 25W amp powering the whole thing, so would the proximity of the BT receiver to the amp cause any interference? If so, should I put a shielding around the receiver or increase the distance from the amp? Thanks for any help or suggestions in advance!
The attached cables don't increase reception. Like most Bluetooth modules, the antenna is actually etched directly onto the circuit board. If you zoom in on the picture of this one, you can actually see the antenna. It is located on the side facing you, and opposite the cable connections. It's just a little squiggle.You shouldn't have any problem with just 3/8" of wood as an enclosure. It is not recommended that you shield the Bluetooth board, although some areas could, technically, be shielded. Do not place the antenna edge near any metal, if at all possible. Metal will block/reflect the Bluetooth signal.My recommendation is that you connect everything together on your bench/table, before installing. Make sure everything works well together, and test for any interference between components. In theory, there shouldn't be much interference, but in practice, antennas are usually placed as far away from amplifiers and power supplies as is possible. Amplifiers and power supplies create EMI and RFI. If you do get interference, the source is likely one of those two components. If shielding is necessary, shield those components, being careful not to impede cooling. You can experiment with shielding, as well, before permanent mounting in the enclosure.
Date published: 2012-12-29