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80 Hz Low Pass 8 Ohm Crossover
I'd asked about using this inline to an *" subwoofer and Matt said not recommended and that I should replace the amplifier. I assume Matt was talking about a new plate amplifier? If so, there is a 50W and a 100W on your site that could work?
We have two models that will work well. The Dayton SA70 or SA100 will work fine for this application, as well as the Yung SD100.
Date published: 2014-03-18
I have an 8" active subwoofer whose amp and/or board has failed. Can I discard that package and wire this in between the speaker and the receiver subwoofer output?
I would not recommend connecting the woofer this way. It will provide a heavy load on that channel of the amplifier and will not sound the same nor have the same output if shared with the main speakers. I would recommend replacing the amplifier itself. We have many different models that can work for this.
Date published: 2014-03-17
i have two 4 ohms subs wired in series for 8 ohms load/bridge on my amp. i would just need one crossover, right? thanks
Yes you will only need one crossover.
Date published: 2014-02-26
Powering stereo sub with DBX Subwoofer amp but crossover is set to high at 200 H.Z. and I need to lower it to 80 H.Z. some way, please read details..
I have a DBX 140 watt stereo amp that the main amp runs to as an input and then the sub gets wired into the DBX amp and the bookshelf speakers have a speaker wire level output. I have a old stereo Dual 10" Fried non-powered sub with a built in cross-over as 80 H.Z. already. When using this DBX amp it has a set cross-over of 200 H.Z. Will the 80 H.Z. built in 80 H.Z. cross-over in the sub work when I input it into the amp even though the amp has a built in cross-over set at 200 H.Z.? It's a nice old very expensive in it's day was purchased for $900 in a kit. So I would like to use it in my High end stereo only setup. I have a Hafler DH 500 that could power the sub if I just wired to it directly at 80 H.Z. However, I was looking to amplify the Fried stereo sub with the DBX amp. The DBX wires up like its in stereo, however it may just output a mono signal? Either way I would like to get the Fried in the high end stereo setup and if I can amplify it with this DBX amp it should perform better. I can pick up one of these amps for about $50 so I need to know the best way to wire it up? Should I pull the built in cross-over? and then add the 80 H.Z. lowpass cross-overs that are sold here? Or can I use the existing built in 80 H.Z. cross-over and still amplify the Fried with this DBX sub amp with its cross-over setting at 200 H.Z.? I don't understand where to wire in the 80 H.Z. cross-overs? Can I just use the 80 H.Z. unit on the bottom of the sub and wire it directly into the DBX amp or does the cross-over setting of 80 H.Z. need to be in series with the sub speaker wires after it is outputted to the DBX amp? I'm a little confused about this one and need a little help. The Fried will work with just the Hafler powering it. However, a DBX sub amp should give it a little more punch with the separate amp! I know this is a long series of questions, so thanks in advance to anyone that will help me out. Steven Level
The built in crossover of the subwoofer enclosure will "override" the 200 Hz crossover on the amplifier. The crossover on the amplifier (which is electronic) cuts the audio at 200 Hz, the built in crossover brings that down even lower, down to 80 Hz. No matter what passive crossover you use, it will have to be wired in series into the active subwoofer line; just make sure the resistance matches up. Once a passive crossover is used, there can be no alteration to the crossover frequency, unless a different one is installed.
Date published: 2014-01-08
I wanna build this with PE parts
I want to build this Low Pass Crossover. I think I could if I knew the path the signal took from input to output and what the mH and gauge of the solid I core inductor is. Can anyone provide that info?I tried to build one with parts listed below but this product is actually what I should build.
I would not recommend puting a series resistor on your woofer as your diagram dictates. You are limiting your power capability and seriously padding your driver.I would recommend sticking with a standard design such as this (assuming active filtering is not an option). Based on my quick research, this unit is much more affordable than building your own as the inductor is so large (likely about 22mh).
Date published: 2014-01-08
speaking of project boxes...
how about 2 in one larger project box? single input, wired in parallel and then on to dual outputs. Results= 4ohm stable amp, thru this box and on to two 8ohm bass cabs or subs. any problem with this? Sure I could use a 4ohm unit and then just daisy chain the cabs but since the head can do about 500 watts I'm not sure a single unit would be cut out for this??? input please.PS- wish these came in more Hz options and in bandpass versions!
There would be nothing wrong with this, it would be no different than having one in each cab and wiring them together. Consider a few vent holes in the box just in case you decide to run it close to full power for any extended amount of time.
Date published: 2014-01-08