how would I wire in the Input signal? there is the J1 box that has 8 holes between the 2 RCA inputs and it looks like you connect the 1 channel into side, then hook in the other channel to the other side and ground wires into the middle 2 spots?
Would a 15V 1.4A power supply work with this amp? I'm not sure that 1.4A is enough.
Yes. I have that adapter. The fellows 15v it's a buyout special. It's rated 1.4 but it actually puts out 2.5 amps at 15v and something like 3 or so at 14v .yeah it works good.
Date published: 2015-03-25
Is it possible to bridge this amplifier? If yes how would I go about doing it?
This amplifier cannot be bridged.
Date published: 2015-02-11
The amp pictured has a heat-sink, yet the description indicates it doesn't need one. Is there a heat-sink installed on the board as shown?
Yes this does include a mounted heat sink as pictured. I will have the copy fixed.
Date published: 2015-01-09
Would a 4 amp power supply work for this amp?
Yes as long as the voltage is in the operating range of the amplifier.
Date published: 2014-11-12
Would this amp behave nicely in a car setup, simply hooked up to the battery and chassis ground, without picking up alternator noise? Also, would it make the dreaded turn on pop if setup in a delayed turn-on configuration?
This will work well in a car application, alternator noise should not be an issue if properly ground. You should have no issues with turn on pop if used with a power up delay.
Date published: 2014-09-23
Can this amplifier be bridged to send a summed stereo signal to one speaker?
Unfortunately this amplifier is not bridgeable.
Date published: 2014-11-08
Could I power this with two 9V batteries?
Technically you could assuming the batteries were in series, although it is not recommended. 9 volt batteries generally have very little current so they would not last very long. A 12V SLA battery would be a better choice but worst case scenario would be 8 high storage AA batteries.
Date published: 2014-05-13
I would like to use this amp in the roof space with 2 ceiling speakers and a Bluetooth adapter so I can play musi using my iPhone. However I need the amp to be in a box to protect it from being a fire risk. Any thoughts on how to do this?
There are plenty of ways to do this, it will be up to how much work you want to put into it. Some people build nice chassis for these with RCA, binding post and power connectors on the outside, while others simply put them in a wooden or metal box and just feed the wires through holes. Some people even leave them completely exposed, which will not hurt anything either as long as they are out of the elements.
Date published: 2014-04-22
can this be used with one 4ohm load safely?
I would not recommend this for a 4 ohm load since the manufacturer only rates it down to 6 ohms.
Date published: 2014-02-04
How would one go about adding tone control to this board?
A pre amp will have to be used in order to add tone controls to this board.
Date published: 2014-01-30
SW1 has two micro switches that came defaulted to both ON. What are these for?
The dip switches are for gain control adjustments. Gain control is accomplished by setting two DIP switches, and there are four gain modes available: 24.6 to 26.6 dB, 30.6 to 32.6 dB, 34.1 to 36.1 dB, and 36.6 to 38.6 dB. There should be directions in the manual for how these should be set.
Date published: 2014-11-08
what would a good power supply for max outputwill this one give me full output?
Unfortunately that will only supply 1A which will not be ideal. We usually recommend the 320-3140 with the voltage turned down to 20DVC. This can be done using a volt meter.
Date published: 2014-07-15
Hi, i have a few general questions.I understand that when choosing a power supply, the total voltage x amperage rating should match the expected output of the board (after efficiency is factored in). So, what's the difference between a 12v 4a power supply (48w) and a 16v 3a power supply (48w)? or even a 24v 2a (48w) power supply. What are the differences and advantages, if they all output the same in theory?Do i need to build a separate enclosure for this board? it will be mounted on the inside of a boombox, away from the elements. I'm not sure if that's sufficient, though.Will this amp play sound in stereo, with separate sound coming from the left and right channels? Or does everything just come out of both left and right?Also, what exactly is a pre-amp, and why would i need one/what purpose does it serve?And lastly, what do the gain controls for this amp do, what is their effect on sound and output, and what is the proper way to set them? I have a DD-1 for car audio gains, but i don't know what to do for this one.Thanks in advance. Any explanation will be greatly appreciated; as i learn best from understanding things, and will be able to better understand the products i am buying, and make more informed buying choices. Cheers.
You need a 14v to 19v DC power supply to operate this board. If it's mounted on the inside of a "boom box" it should be OK if it's away from the elements. This will play stereo. A pre-amp takes a weak signal from a phonograph, guitar or anything below -20db and boosts it to "true line level" for the amplifier to work at full potential. Set a pre-amp so there is plenty of volume, but no distortion or noise. [use your ears for this]. Gain is "cut or boost" of the original signal--not to be confused with a volume control--but adjustments affect volume B4 the amplifier stage. Great questions!! Good luck to you!!
Date published: 2015-03-05
button volume control and on and off control?
You can use an on/off switch wired to the power supply. A volume control should be wired to the signal inputs. I have listed a few for you to look at.
Date published: 2015-03-01
hi me again lol, can i use this with a 24V power supply. if not what should i use
This amp will only work with voltages between 14 and 19 VDC.
Date published: 2013-09-03
whats the L,W and H in inches?
4.34"L x 2.7"W x .63"H
Date published: 2013-09-03
can i use this to power a TANG-BANG 5-1/4 inch subwoofer part number 264-917
Yes, this amp would work fine with that driver. The channels on this can't be bridged, and the Tang Band subs are 4 ohms, so just hook up one driver per channel.Since you are looking to power a subwoofer, make sure that you use a robust power supply that gives the board 19 volts at 4 or more amps. This should help ensure that the amp has enough juice to keep the speakers from clipping too easily.Even with that, remember, that is a 5" subwoofer. It will perform nicely, but it will never fill the role of the 12"s in a trunk, or a nice home theater subwoofer. It was really intended for like a PC gaming or movie set up where you are sitting very close to the subwoofer.
Date published: 2013-08-16
4 ohm performance?
Anyone tried this board at 4 ohms? I'm working on a DSP curved CBT array that will require individual amplifier channels for each driver pair. I'll be using Emotiva 7-ch amplifiers for most of the array but need something low power for the ends where shading reduces the power requirement. The highest power requirement will be 17 watts. I'm thinking these should work fine. Thoughts?
The 25 watt rating given in the product listing is for a 4 ohm load, assuming you are using a 19 volt power supply with adequate amperage (4 amps should be plenty). The 6 ohm 25 watt spec given in the description is at 10% THD. Given that info, at 4 ohms this board should be able to put out 25 watts at ~1%THD.This should work fine for you, and at 17 watts the output should be very nice from one of these boards.You will most likely need something to adjust the low level signal going into the board in order to level match it to the output from your nearby Emotiva amps. You can use the rotary encoder below, or just a dual ganged stereo potentiometer.If you are looking for a power supply you could use a laptop power supply, like the one below (19V @ 4 A). i have had good results with a similarly spec'd OEM PSU.
Date published: 2014-06-20
Thinking of building a portable powered speaker with a rechargeable battery. Any battery suggestions and power supplies?
Any 5 or 7 Ah sealed lead acid type battery will be perfect for this amplifier. I would recommend our Grip Tools float charger for charging.
Date published: 2013-09-16
Does this amp cause speakers to "pop" when turned on?
I am thinking about integrating this amp in a boombox build and I would like to wire in a simple power switch on the + wire between the power supply and this amplifier. If I do that, will flipping the switch create a "pop" or "bump" sound in the speakers when the amp powers on?
Wiring a switch in line with the power is not a problem and is very common. This will not cause a popping sound through the speakers.
Date published: 2013-05-08
What size is the DC in?
I saw in another question that the user Beatnik recommended getting the "Universal Laptop Power Supply" (PE 120-500). By using different DC connector tips, the power supply will regulate voltage. I looked at the manual for this amplifier and it doesn't specify a size for the DC connector, so I was wondering if someone had this and could verify which tip size it is. Another answer here implied that it might be 2.1mm x 5.5mm, which isn't a supported tip of the power supply I mentioned previously.Additionally, if someone knows of a better power supply to use with this board, I'm all ears. I've been looking into this for the past hour, and that Universal PSU seems like one of the better bets.
The DC Jack for the amplifier is a OD 5.5mm x ID 2.5mm coaxial.Two things to consider with the Universal Power supply. First off is a noise. Generally this can be overcome with some filtering caps and/or a linear regulator circuit. Second is the tip/voltage selection problem.I first suggest picking up some two screw terminals (PE 320-3370) for the power input to the amplifier. One of these can be soldered right next to the DC jack for you power input.The universal supply uses a 6-pin mini DIN plug. Four of the pins carry the +/- supply. The other two are a voltage reference that determines the output voltage of the PS. So at minimum you will need to determine a voltage divider circuit (two resistors) to set the 16 volts.Another option would be to use a tip with a higher voltage, then use a linear voltage regulator IC with MOSFET power transistor to handle the current.Best of luck.
Date published: 2013-05-06
Would this work with a 18.5v li-ion battery which has a voltage range of 15-21volts from fully charged to discharged?
Yes this will work fine with a battery as you described.
Date published: 2013-03-29
Power, mute, and stby switches.
It appears there are board markings for power, mute, and stby. Are they for switches? If this is so, how would it best be done, and with what switches?Thank you.
All of the power markings are for power in. You can also use them for piggy backing power in to more than one board. Simply put a switch in the power line to break current flow to the board. Better practice would be to add an isolation device to protect the user from all the amperage going into the board (Use of relay, Power Mosfets, Darlington Transistor, etc) and switch that lower current device instead.To use the mute and stby, all you need to do is switch to ground. The Pull up resistors and smoothing capacitor is on board already.
Date published: 2013-03-25
Are the TDA7492 and
TDA7498 boards the same?http://www.parts-express.com/pe/showdetl.cfm?partnumber=320-332 on the right actually shows TDA7498, at least this is what I can see at the top of the schematic
The TDA7492 and TDA7498 are from the same family of chips and also have the same pin out(See photos below). However they do have different power ratings. Also looking at the boards(PE 320-303 and 320-332), they are very similar suggesting the schematics are the same. I own the TDA7492 and it has pin outs for the 12v Fan that you see on TDA7498.TDA7492Features■ 50 W + 50 W continuous output power atTHD = 10% with RL = 6 Ω and VCC = 25 V■ 40 W + 40 W continuous output power atTHD = 10% with RL = 8 Ω and VCC = 25 V■ Wide-range single-supply operation (8 - 26 V)TDA7498Features■ 100-W + 100-W output power atTHD = 10% with RL = 6 Ω and VCC = 36 V■ 80-W + 80-W output power atTHD = 10% with RL = 8 Ω and VCC = 34 V■ Wide-range single-supply operation (14 - 39 V)
Date published: 2013-03-21
I have a project I'm working on. I'm taking an old antique radio and turning it into an iPhone speaker dock. I'd like to use this amp to power the speakers, but I don't have a ton of space for a big power supply. So here's my question, will this wall wart (PE Part#: 120-052) work for this?
Not even close. First it only provides 12V and secondly it is only 2 amp supply. To get event somewhere close you would need 3-4amp and 15V supply. The specs. states that 14V is minimum and 19 max. Counting some losses 19V 4amp would be preferable, but 15V 4amp would do and is maybe more easy to acquire.
Date published: 2014-03-23
Is there a 5 volt out on the amp board?
I bought one of these amps to make a small desktop system and couldn't be more happy with the results. My set up just uses a adapter cable from the headphone jack on my smartphone to the inputs on the amp. Now I have a friend that wants me to make them an ipod dock. I want to use the Ipod connector and can get a cord that adapts the connector to RCA jacks. The cord also has wires to go to a 5v source so that the Ipod can charge while connected. Looking at the board I see it's marked with 5v + and a ground. Is there indeed a 5v output at the board I can connect to? Thanks in advance!Steve
The board has a 5V output which is meant to power the rotary encoder and volume control board accessory. It probably can't provide enough current to charge an iPod and attempting to do so would likely damage the board. You'll need either need to add a separate 5V power supply or regulate the 15-19V DC that's powering the amp board down to 5V.
Date published: 2014-03-23
Part Number for PS plug?
Can you provide the part number(s) for the appropriate plug to terminate the power supply connection with? Is this same plug used for all the SURE amplifier boards, or do they vary? I am looking to use this board for some small sattelites along with a second, higher power board for the small subwoofer.
I have linked the connector you are asking for, and I believe that if you want, you can buy the same thing at a neighborhood electronics store and it is called a K type connector. Your plan is actually really good to use this amp as the surround and a big amp board for the subwoofer. Also, yes they all tend to have the same connector. Best of luck with your project!
Date published: 2012-09-18
Work with a 12V power supply?
I've tested this briefly by powering it with a 12V battery and it seems to work okay. It appears to be loud enough for me, but by using something below the specified requirements (14V-19V), could there be any drawbacks?
Well by using the proper "12v" battery, you will actually be meeting it's needs. A "12" volt lead acid battery, like an SLA, actually exhibits a common voltage of 13.8-14.4 volts. Also, chances are, 12 volts might actually work, but as you guessed, it would produce a lower output if any at all. Best of luck, and if it works, then no harm done, seeing as it's below specs. Not like you can burn it out lol. Hope this helped.
Date published: 2012-07-07
Power on pop?
This amp is great when playing but when I plug in the power source (from a walwart), I get a loud "pop." actually two "pops" and then the board seems to be working fine. I don't know if the chip is okay with that or if that signals something is going wrong. Also, when I plug in my power source, I get sparks from the DC power input socket. maybe my board is just defective but I thought I should ask.
The chip is fine, the pop you are hearing is a momentary DC offset that occurs when the capacitors on the amp board are being charged ,and then discharged when you turn it off. It happens to everyone with chip amps, and it is unlikely to hurt anything (unless you are running a tweeter with no crossover). Most commercial amps have a built in "soft start" circuit that tames this. You can build a soft start circuit pretty easily if this really bothers you, but most people just deal with it. Check forums for plans for soft start circuits.Below is an example of one I found.Also, the sparks you see are probably normal too. Most of the time you can't see the inside of a receptacle in which you plug a wall wart, but in this case you can.
Date published: 2013-01-21