Hi, i have a few general questions.I understand that when choosing a power supply, the total voltage x amperage rating should match the expected output of the board (after efficiency is factored in). So, what's the difference between a 12v 4a power supply (48w) and a 16v 3a power supply (48w)? or even a 24v 2a (48w) power supply. What are the differences and advantages, if they all output the same in theory?Do i need to build a separate enclosure for this board? it will be mounted on the inside of a boombox, away from the elements. I'm not sure if that's sufficient, though.Will this amp play sound in stereo, with separate sound coming from the left and right channels? Or does everything just come out of both left and right?Also, what exactly is a pre-amp, and why would i need one/what purpose does it serve?And lastly, what do the gain controls for this amp do, what is their effect on sound and output, and what is the proper way to set them? I have a DD-1 for car audio gains, but i don't know what to do for this one.Thanks in advance. Any explanation will be greatly appreciated; as i learn best from understanding things, and will be able to better understand the products i am buying, and make more informed buying choices. Cheers.
You need a 14v to 19v DC power supply to operate this board. If it's mounted on the inside of a "boom box" it should be OK if it's away from the elements. This will play stereo. A pre-amp takes a weak signal from a phonograph, guitar or anything below -20db and boosts it to "true line level" for the amplifier to work at full potential. Set a pre-amp so there is plenty of volume, but no distortion or noise. [use your ears for this]. Gain is "cut or boost" of the original signal--not to be confused with a volume control--but adjustments affect volume B4 the amplifier stage. Great questions!! Good luck to you!!
Date published: 2014-06-20
button volume control and on and off control?
You can use an on/off switch wired to the power supply. A volume control should be wired to the signal inputs. I have listed a few for you to look at.
Date published: 2014-07-15
hi me again lol, can i use this with a 24V power supply. if not what should i use
This amp will only work with voltages between 14 and 19 VDC.
Date published: 2013-09-03
whats the L,W and H in inches?
4.34"L x 2.7"W x .63"H
Date published: 2013-09-03
can i use this to power a TANG-BANG 5-1/4 inch subwoofer part number 264-917
Yes, this amp would work fine with that driver. The channels on this can't be bridged, and the Tang Band subs are 4 ohms, so just hook up one driver per channel.Since you are looking to power a subwoofer, make sure that you use a robust power supply that gives the board 19 volts at 4 or more amps. This should help ensure that the amp has enough juice to keep the speakers from clipping too easily.Even with that, remember, that is a 5" subwoofer. It will perform nicely, but it will never fill the role of the 12"s in a trunk, or a nice home theater subwoofer. It was really intended for like a PC gaming or movie set up where you are sitting very close to the subwoofer.
Date published: 2013-08-16
4 ohm performance?
Anyone tried this board at 4 ohms? I'm working on a DSP curved CBT array that will require individual amplifier channels for each driver pair. I'll be using Emotiva 7-ch amplifiers for most of the array but need something low power for the ends where shading reduces the power requirement. The highest power requirement will be 17 watts. I'm thinking these should work fine. Thoughts?
The 25 watt rating given in the product listing is for a 4 ohm load, assuming you are using a 19 volt power supply with adequate amperage (4 amps should be plenty). The 6 ohm 25 watt spec given in the description is at 10% THD. Given that info, at 4 ohms this board should be able to put out 25 watts at ~1%THD.This should work fine for you, and at 17 watts the output should be very nice from one of these boards.You will most likely need something to adjust the low level signal going into the board in order to level match it to the output from your nearby Emotiva amps. You can use the rotary encoder below, or just a dual ganged stereo potentiometer.If you are looking for a power supply you could use a laptop power supply, like the one below (19V @ 4 A). i have had good results with a similarly spec'd OEM PSU.
Date published: 2014-06-20
Thinking of building a portable powered speaker with a rechargeable battery. Any battery suggestions and power supplies?
Any 5 or 7 Ah sealed lead acid type battery will be perfect for this amplifier. I would recommend our Grip Tools float charger for charging.
Date published: 2013-09-16
Does this amp cause speakers to "pop" when turned on?
I am thinking about integrating this amp in a boombox build and I would like to wire in a simple power switch on the + wire between the power supply and this amplifier. If I do that, will flipping the switch create a "pop" or "bump" sound in the speakers when the amp powers on?
Wiring a switch in line with the power is not a problem and is very common. This will not cause a popping sound through the speakers.
Date published: 2013-05-08
What size is the DC in?
I saw in another question that the user Beatnik recommended getting the "Universal Laptop Power Supply" (PE 120-500). By using different DC connector tips, the power supply will regulate voltage. I looked at the manual for this amplifier and it doesn't specify a size for the DC connector, so I was wondering if someone had this and could verify which tip size it is. Another answer here implied that it might be 2.1mm x 5.5mm, which isn't a supported tip of the power supply I mentioned previously.Additionally, if someone knows of a better power supply to use with this board, I'm all ears. I've been looking into this for the past hour, and that Universal PSU seems like one of the better bets.
The DC Jack for the amplifier is a OD 5.5mm x ID 2.5mm coaxial.Two things to consider with the Universal Power supply. First off is a noise. Generally this can be overcome with some filtering caps and/or a linear regulator circuit. Second is the tip/voltage selection problem.I first suggest picking up some two screw terminals (PE 320-3370) for the power input to the amplifier. One of these can be soldered right next to the DC jack for you power input.The universal supply uses a 6-pin mini DIN plug. Four of the pins carry the +/- supply. The other two are a voltage reference that determines the output voltage of the PS. So at minimum you will need to determine a voltage divider circuit (two resistors) to set the 16 volts.Another option would be to use a tip with a higher voltage, then use a linear voltage regulator IC with MOSFET power transistor to handle the current.Best of luck.
Date published: 2013-05-06
Would this work with a 18.5v li-ion battery which has a voltage range of 15-21volts from fully charged to discharged?
Yes this will work fine with a battery as you described.
Date published: 2013-03-29
Power, mute, and stby switches.
It appears there are board markings for power, mute, and stby. Are they for switches? If this is so, how would it best be done, and with what switches?Thank you.
All of the power markings are for power in. You can also use them for piggy backing power in to more than one board. Simply put a switch in the power line to break current flow to the board. Better practice would be to add an isolation device to protect the user from all the amperage going into the board (Use of relay, Power Mosfets, Darlington Transistor, etc) and switch that lower current device instead.To use the mute and stby, all you need to do is switch to ground. The Pull up resistors and smoothing capacitor is on board already.
Date published: 2013-03-25
Are the TDA7492 and
TDA7498 boards the same?http://www.parts-express.com/pe/showdetl.cfm?partnumber=320-332 on the right actually shows TDA7498, at least this is what I can see at the top of the schematic
The TDA7492 and TDA7498 are from the same family of chips and also have the same pin out(See photos below). However they do have different power ratings. Also looking at the boards(PE 320-303 and 320-332), they are very similar suggesting the schematics are the same. I own the TDA7492 and it has pin outs for the 12v Fan that you see on TDA7498.TDA7492Features■ 50 W + 50 W continuous output power atTHD = 10% with RL = 6 Ω and VCC = 25 V■ 40 W + 40 W continuous output power atTHD = 10% with RL = 8 Ω and VCC = 25 V■ Wide-range single-supply operation (8 - 26 V)TDA7498Features■ 100-W + 100-W output power atTHD = 10% with RL = 6 Ω and VCC = 36 V■ 80-W + 80-W output power atTHD = 10% with RL = 8 Ω and VCC = 34 V■ Wide-range single-supply operation (14 - 39 V)
Date published: 2013-03-21
I have a project I'm working on. I'm taking an old antique radio and turning it into an iPhone speaker dock. I'd like to use this amp to power the speakers, but I don't have a ton of space for a big power supply. So here's my question, will this wall wart (PE Part#: 120-052) work for this?
Not even close. First it only provides 12V and secondly it is only 2 amp supply. To get event somewhere close you would need 3-4amp and 15V supply. The specs. states that 14V is minimum and 19 max. Counting some losses 19V 4amp would be preferable, but 15V 4amp would do and is maybe more easy to acquire.
Date published: 2014-03-23
Is there a 5 volt out on the amp board?
I bought one of these amps to make a small desktop system and couldn't be more happy with the results. My set up just uses a adapter cable from the headphone jack on my smartphone to the inputs on the amp. Now I have a friend that wants me to make them an ipod dock. I want to use the Ipod connector and can get a cord that adapts the connector to RCA jacks. The cord also has wires to go to a 5v source so that the Ipod can charge while connected. Looking at the board I see it's marked with 5v + and a ground. Is there indeed a 5v output at the board I can connect to? Thanks in advance!Steve
The board has a 5V output which is meant to power the rotary encoder and volume control board accessory. It probably can't provide enough current to charge an iPod and attempting to do so would likely damage the board. You'll need either need to add a separate 5V power supply or regulate the 15-19V DC that's powering the amp board down to 5V.
Date published: 2014-03-23
Part Number for PS plug?
Can you provide the part number(s) for the appropriate plug to terminate the power supply connection with? Is this same plug used for all the SURE amplifier boards, or do they vary? I am looking to use this board for some small sattelites along with a second, higher power board for the small subwoofer.
I have linked the connector you are asking for, and I believe that if you want, you can buy the same thing at a neighborhood electronics store and it is called a K type connector. Your plan is actually really good to use this amp as the surround and a big amp board for the subwoofer. Also, yes they all tend to have the same connector. Best of luck with your project!
Date published: 2012-09-18
Work with a 12V power supply?
I've tested this briefly by powering it with a 12V battery and it seems to work okay. It appears to be loud enough for me, but by using something below the specified requirements (14V-19V), could there be any drawbacks?
Well by using the proper "12v" battery, you will actually be meeting it's needs. A "12" volt lead acid battery, like an SLA, actually exhibits a common voltage of 13.8-14.4 volts. Also, chances are, 12 volts might actually work, but as you guessed, it would produce a lower output if any at all. Best of luck, and if it works, then no harm done, seeing as it's below specs. Not like you can burn it out lol. Hope this helped.
Date published: 2012-07-07
Power on pop?
This amp is great when playing but when I plug in the power source (from a walwart), I get a loud "pop." actually two "pops" and then the board seems to be working fine. I don't know if the chip is okay with that or if that signals something is going wrong. Also, when I plug in my power source, I get sparks from the DC power input socket. maybe my board is just defective but I thought I should ask.
The chip is fine, the pop you are hearing is a momentary DC offset that occurs when the capacitors on the amp board are being charged ,and then discharged when you turn it off. It happens to everyone with chip amps, and it is unlikely to hurt anything (unless you are running a tweeter with no crossover). Most commercial amps have a built in "soft start" circuit that tames this. You can build a soft start circuit pretty easily if this really bothers you, but most people just deal with it. Check forums for plans for soft start circuits.Below is an example of one I found.Also, the sparks you see are probably normal too. Most of the time you can't see the inside of a receptacle in which you plug a wall wart, but in this case you can.
Date published: 2013-01-21
I just bought this little amp and plugged everything in. the Rotary encoder board works and there is music playing, but the bass seems to be really weak. I am not a bass junkie, but a little more bass wouldn't hurt. does anyone know how to increase the bass? or if I need to, which capacitors should I change with larger ones to increase bass level?
The cure depends on a few things.First - did these speakers ever produce the bass levels you want - at normal listening levels? If the answer = YES...see below. If you have no proof that the speakers can produce the bass you want - the problem may not be the amp. Temporarily hookup the speakers to a big amp and see what you get. If that is OK - read on. If still weak - the speakers are the problem....OR your new amp cannot produce enough power at bass frequencies to make you happy. Bass uses 50x more power than mids and highs.If the speakers are OK - the problem MIGHT be that the coupling capacitors on the output stage of the upstream source ....or the coupling caps on the input to this amp are too small. Putting larger values IN PARALLEL with the the existing ones is a good experiment to see if the bass gets better. This is a VERY tricky thing to do if you are not savvy regarding electronics.For the followign answer - I will assume you know electronics. If the following does not make sense to you - don't try it as you could blow up stuff. Start with the output stage of the upstream source. Use coupling caps that are 10x the value of what is used now (or higher). You will need the schematic for the upstream device. Test for DC across the existing caps (all items connected and powered up) to see if polarization will be important. If DC of more than a 20mv exists - use either Non-Polar caps or polarized ones installe in correct orientation. testing by clipping the outboard caps across the on-board ones is good enough to listen and decide. Once you know that big caps are the solution you will have to actually install them by soldering to the PCB. If you still don't have enough bass - move on to the power amp. Good luck
Date published: 2014-06-13
What should the amperasge of the power supply be?
The ad states that the PS should be 14-19 volts, but does not call out an amp rating. Would an old printer PS (18vdc @ 1.7a) be sufficient? I am looking to power a speaker cabinet (8 - 10 inch driver) for a bass guitar practice amp. I suspect 1.7a is a little low.
60 amp should be addiquite.
Date published: 2014-07-23
Would it be possible to run this amp at 1x50w in bridged mode? If so, how would one go about properly wiring the amp for such a configuration? Thanks!
Unfortunately none of these sure class D amp boards can be bridged.
Date published: 2014-02-25
Any PS recomendations? I see that 320-316 looks like a good supply for a 2X100x (320-334) but @24 volts it would not be good for this one.
I do not see any PSUs on Parts Express that would offer up any more than 15-16.5 total available watts (see below).Personally, I would look for an old printer or laptop power supply (brick) that you don't need anymore. Many of those run at 14-19 volts DC and would provide adequate amperage to get the most out of this little board.95 watt laptop power supplies that put out 19.5 volts at ~4.9 amps are very common. Use your judgment with these as they are technically over the specified voltage that this board can take (by half a volt).
Date published: 2012-07-23
Would this handle a 19.5V laptop power supply?
It states the max voltage for this board is 19v in the description. However, I imagine this is a slightly conservative estimate. I would not hesitate personally running this with a 19.5V power supply, but you would be using outside of its published specifications and thus most likely voiding your warranty. Its probably a pretty safe bet, but its your 20 bucks.
Date published: 2012-12-16