Get your questions answered from other customers
who own this product or have experience with it.
If your question requires design or troubleshooting information,
please email firstname.lastname@example.org
for a prompt reply.
2x25W at 4 Ohm TDA7492 Class-D Audio Amplifier Board Only
I just bought this little amp and plugged everything in. the Rotary encoder board works and there is music playing, but the bass seems to be really weak. I am not a bass junkie, but a little more bass wouldn't hurt. does anyone know how to increase the bass? or if I need to, which capacitors should I change with larger ones to increase bass level?
The cure depends on a few things.First - did these speakers ever produce the bass levels you want - at normal listening levels? If the answer = YES...see below. If you have no proof that the speakers can produce the bass you want - the problem may not be the amp. Temporarily hookup the speakers to a big amp and see what you get. If that is OK - read on. If still weak - the speakers are the problem....OR your new amp cannot produce enough power at bass frequencies to make you happy. Bass uses 50x more power than mids and highs.If the speakers are OK - the problem MIGHT be that the coupling capacitors on the output stage of the upstream source ....or the coupling caps on the input to this amp are too small. Putting larger values IN PARALLEL with the the existing ones is a good experiment to see if the bass gets better. This is a VERY tricky thing to do if you are not savvy regarding electronics.For the followign answer - I will assume you know electronics. If the following does not make sense to you - don't try it as you could blow up stuff. Start with the output stage of the upstream source. Use coupling caps that are 10x the value of what is used now (or higher). You will need the schematic for the upstream device. Test for DC across the existing caps (all items connected and powered up) to see if polarization will be important. If DC of more than a 20mv exists - use either Non-Polar caps or polarized ones installe in correct orientation. testing by clipping the outboard caps across the on-board ones is good enough to listen and decide. Once you know that big caps are the solution you will have to actually install them by soldering to the PCB. If you still don't have enough bass - move on to the power amp. Good luck
Date published: 2012-07-10
Work with a 12V power supply?
I've tested this briefly by powering it with a 12V battery and it seems to work okay. It appears to be loud enough for me, but by using something below the specified requirements (14V-19V), could there be any drawbacks?
The only drawbacks you will get are:1. You won't be getting the full rated power of 25W/channel2. It might shut off as the battery dischargesOther than these 2 things, there is pretty much nothing that can go wrong. Using a power supply voltage lower than the recommended value can't wreck this amp.Some more details about these 2 drawbacks:1. This amp is rated for 25W/channel when powering 6 ohm speakers, and when using a 15V power supply, according to the specs. As with all of these amps from Sure Electronics, the actual output power will depend on the power supply’s voltage: the higher the voltage, the higher the power. So, because your 12V battery’s voltage is lower than the voltage used for the specs, you’ll get less output. But, the differences here are minimal (15V vs 12V isn’t much).2. As the battery discharges, its voltage will drop. When the battery is fully discharged, it will be about 10.5V (when still connected to the amp), and about 11.7V when open-circuited. So, although your battery is able to turn on your amp when it’s fully charged (which will be a voltage of 12.6V), it might not be able to keep it on as it discharged.Also I must point out one thing that another answerer incorrectly stated: at full charge, your “12V” battery will NOT be at a voltage of 13.8 − 14.4V. This seems to be quite a common misconception about 12V lead-acid batteries. A 12V lead-acid battery at full charge with nothing attached to it (aka open-circuited) will have a voltage of 12.6V. The 13.8 − 14.4 volt level often incorrectly mentioned is actually the charging voltage that car alternators apply to car batteries. When the car is running, that is the voltage you’ll get if you measure the terminal voltage of the battery. Turn the car off, and over the course of a few hours it will settle back to 12.6V if it’s fully charged.
Date published: 2013-08-02
Is there a 5 volt out on the amp board?
I bought one of these amps to make a small desktop system and couldn't be more happy with the results. My set up just uses a adapter cable from the headphone jack on my smartphone to the inputs on the amp. Now I have a friend that wants me to make them an ipod dock. I want to use the Ipod connector and can get a cord that adapts the connector to RCA jacks. The cord also has wires to go to a 5v source so that the Ipod can charge while connected. Looking at the board I see it's marked with 5v + and a ground. Is there indeed a 5v output at the board I can connect to? Thanks in advance!Steve
The board has a 5V output which is meant to power the rotary encoder and volume control board accessory. It probably can't provide enough current to charge an iPod and attempting to do so would likely damage the board. You'll need either need to add a separate 5V power supply or regulate the 15-19V DC that's powering the amp board down to 5V.
Date published: 2012-10-02
I have a project I'm working on. I'm taking an old antique radio and turning it into an iPhone speaker dock. I'd like to use this amp to power the speakers, but I don't have a ton of space for a big power supply. So here's my question, will this wall wart (PE Part#: 120-052) work for this?
Not even close. First it only provides 12V and secondly it is only 2 amp supply. To get event somewhere close you would need 3-4amp and 15V supply. The specs. states that 14V is minimum and 19 max. Counting some losses 19V 4amp would be preferable, but 15V 4amp would do and is maybe more easy to acquire.
Date published: 2013-02-08
Would this handle a 19.5V laptop power supply?
It states the max voltage for this board is 19v in the description. However, I imagine this is a slightly conservative estimate. I would not hesitate personally running this with a 19.5V power supply, but you would be using outside of its published specifications and thus most likely voiding your warranty. Its probably a pretty safe bet, but its your 20 bucks.
Date published: 2012-12-16
Any PS recomendations? I see that 320-316 looks like a good supply for a 2X100x (320-334) but @24 volts it would not be good for this one.
I do not see any PSUs on Parts Express that would offer up any more than 15-16.5 total available watts (see below).Personally, I would look for an old printer or laptop power supply (brick) that you don't need anymore. Many of those run at 14-19 volts DC and would provide adequate amperage to get the most out of this little board.95 watt laptop power supplies that put out 19.5 volts at ~4.9 amps are very common. Use your judgment with these as they are technically over the specified voltage that this board can take (by half a volt).
Date published: 2012-07-23