2x250W IRS2092 Class-D Amplifier Board

Brand:| Model: AA-AB32291
Product Video
If you absolutely have to have 250 clean watts of stereo power, look no further than this amplifier board. An IRS2092 is combined with two IRFI4020H-117P power MOSFETS to deliver power effortlessly. Two 55 to 65 VDC power supplies are required for operation. See note below.
  • Power output (with two 56 VDC power supplies): 250W x 2 (8 ohms, 1% THD), 100W x 2 (8 ohms, 0.1% THD)
  • Class-D IRS2092 amp IC
  • Two IRFI4020H-117P power MOSFETS
  • Based on Internal Rectifier''s AMP7D-200 reference design
  • Requires two 55 to 65 VDC power supplies (see note below)
Part # 
Weight: 1.05 lbs.  
List Price$89.99
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Buy 4-up$54.89
Part # 320-313
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Product Details

2x250W IRS2092 Class-D Amplifier Board

This two-channel Class-D amplifier board is based upon the Internal Rectifier AMP7D-200 reference board, using the IRS2092 amplifier IC and the IRFI4020H-117P power MOSFET, and is able to deliver amazing amounts of clean output—up to 250 watts x 2—into 8-ohm loads.

Two 55 to 65 VDC high-voltage power supplies are required for operation (or an AC voltage source with the addition of this rectifier board); each power supply dedicates its full output potential to a single rail for maximum output. This results in increased high-fidelity output, dynamic range is a high 100 dB, damping factor is 120, and total harmonic distortion and noise is 0.1% at 100 watts into an 8-ohm load.

This amplifier board also includes a myriad of protection features: over current, over/under voltage, DC output, and temperature protection circuits are built-in. A rather small footprint lends itself for use in space limited applications.

Note: Minimum recommended power cable size is 16 AWG. This amplifier board requires two power supplies. We recommend two of the 48 VDC, 12.5A regulated power supplies adjusted to 56 VDC of output as a minimum requirement. This amplifier board is recommended for experienced users only with the proper equipment to measure the voltage output of the power supplies. Failure to use the minimum recommended power supply voids the warranty of this amplifier board.

• Stereo Class-D amplifier featuring the IRS2092 amplifier IC
• Dual IRFI4020H-117P digital audio MOSFETs
• Over current, over/under voltage, DC output, and over temperature protection built-in
• Screw-down power input and speaker output terminals
• Robust heatsink for passive cooling

• Power output (with two 56 VDC power supplies): 250W x 2 (8 ohms, 1% THD), 100W x 2 (8 ohms, 0.008% THD)
• Power requirement: 55 to 65 VDC, 12.5A regulated
• Frequency response: 20-35,000 Hz (±3 dB)
• Dynamic range: 100 dB (A-weighted)
• Damping factor: 170 (4 ohm load @ 1 kHz)
• Efficiency: 90% (8 ohms, 250W)
• Dimensions: 5.7" L x 3.9" W x 1.4" H (2-3/8" H with heatsink, 2-7/8" H when mounted on standoffs)

2x250W IRS2092 Class-D Amplifier Board
  • BrandParts Express
  • ModelAA-AB32291
  • Part Number320-313
  • UPC844632096730
  • Product CategoryAudio Amplifier Boards & Modules
  • Unit of MeasureEA
  • Product Rating
    (8 Reviews)
  • Weight1.05 lbs.
  • California Prop 65

    Warning: California residents only. Please note per Proposition 65 that this product may contain chemicals known to the State of California to cause cancer and birth defects or other reproductive harm.

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2x250W IRS2092 Class-D Amplifier Board
2x250W IRS2092 Class-D Amplifier Board is rated 4.5 out of 5 by 8.
Rated 5 out of 5 by from Formerly the BIG GUNSIf memory serves, the first couple years bought goodsn from PE and frequented all parts of the site almost daily, this amp was the "BIGGEST" amop board PE offered. I have stocked up on all sorts of parts, a lot of them PE parts, over the years, and now I have two of these 250x2 Sure boards. It's time to use one - so I came back to its home to see if there had been any news or developments. HOLY SMOKES! You guys are no joke! Some of these reviews are complete greek to me, after buying and playing with, installing and using dozens of these Sure boards- all smaller wattages than this one. I was going to try to use two 12V 20A power supplies on this and now I am questioning the sanity in that. Even wiring those two power supplies has confused me, as the manu8al has some kind of wire one supply + to the amp +, the - to the amop GND. The second supply + to the amp ground and the second supply - to the amp -. HUH!?!? Never even heard of doing such a thing. I also like the idea of putting this in an old receiver. I have plenty- probably with a variety of power or space to add power if need be. So- glad I came back here and didn't just drive in and fry some stuff. Thanks PE reviewers! Back tot he drawing board!
Date published: 2014-12-08
Rated 4 out of 5 by from Amazing what it does for the priceThis is a surprisingly impressive little amp. I mounted it inside an old rack mount case. Bought an old Pioneer receiver at a garage sale for $3 just to get a shielded, 47VCT transformer. Then I built a simple full wave bridge power supply with a pair of 33,000uF/80V caps; this ended up producing +/-64V for the amp.As the other reviewers noted, get the reference design from International Rectifier. It used a nominal 70V and did all the performance testing at that voltage, and recommended operation from 60-80V. I was able to vary my supply voltage with a variac and saw no issues within that range.Check the frequency of the PWM clock oscillator. As it came out of the box, it was dumping large clock signal across my test loudspeakers. One channel was at 256kHz and the other at 309kHz, and the output inductor ran very hot, much hotter than the heatsinked mosfets! This clock signal is very noisy (i.e. it's not a pure tone) and will ride on the waveform of whatever music you put on the input. Whether or not you can hear it depends on the music but it's quite obvious on a scope. I found that the two pots could be adjusted to bring them up to 400kHz. This of course greatly reduced the clock signal across the loudspeakers, allowed the inductor to run a bit cooler, and reduced the modulation to a negligible level. I set them about 30kHz apart to ensure no audible beat would be produced. The supplied documentation says nothing about any of this. The two little pots that adjust the frequency are touchy and cheap so be careful.The output inductor (one for each channel) carries all the load current and dissipates much of the power of the clock, so it runs hot and since it's mounted so close to the output cap (almost touching) it will probably destroy the cap over time. For long term reliability either relocate the output inductors to a heatsink or install a fan. By the way the MOSFET's on the small heat sink never got more than just warm to the touch.I ran the amp through a bunch of tests using an APX525 audio analyzer and a dummy load that could be switched for 4, 8, or 16 ohms. Basically the amp met all the specs on the Parts Express website, and in the original I.R. reference design. Here's a summary of my testing:Voltage gain: 30.2dBInput level for 1dB clipping: 1.4Vrms (this level produced 44.7Vrms into 8 ohms, corresponding to about 250W)Amp is perfectly linear from 1mV input up to >1000mV input, two channels are identicalFrequency response (4-ohm load): 6Hz - 38kHz (+0/-3dB)Frequency response (8-ohm load): 6Hz - 65kHz (+2/-3dB)Frequency response (16-ohm load): 6Hz up to a +10dB peak (ringing) at 45kHz. Don't operate the amp with a high impedance speaker.THD+N (A-weighted): < 0.003% from 5Hz - 1500Hz, then rises to a max of .008% at 10kHz, while driving 60W into 4 ohms (i.e. the test conditions in the original design document).S/N: if used as a subwoofer amp below 1kHz, this is about 100dB A-weighted. This degrades significantly above 10kHz. I was pleasantly surprised as i didn't use a toroidal transformer. I expect this could be much worse if i hadn't used good construction techniques.Residual noise and DC: roughly +/-2mVrms; slight dc component of about 4mV (negligible)Crosstalk: -65dB at 10kHz; better than -82dB at 1kHz and belowInter-channel phase: both channels within 1 deg. for all loads, at 1kHz and below.Damping Factor (10Hz-1kHz): 142-181 into 4 ohms; 213-303 into 8 ohmsEverything about this amp suggests it would be excellent for driving a subwoofer. It offers very low frequency response, very low distortion, and of course super efficient performance at high power levels into a 8-ohm or lower load (it prefers 4 ohm). It clips gracefully and has plenty of protection features built in. Now that i've built it and seen how well it performs, i intend to use it to push a pair of 12 or 15" SB Acoustics subs in sealed enclosures. I expect this to be a great setup. I would hesitate using this for critical, audiophile listening over the entire audio range, due to the clock noise, potential for ringing above 1kHz, and concerns about the output network.The included documentation with the amp is poor. It has contradictory information about the power supply voltage range, and omits details like the proper audio input levels, preferred loads, the built-in switch feature, how the protection circuits recover, and how to set the oscillator frequency. If the original IR document weren’t available on the web, the end user would probably have some real head scratching moments with this amp.Build quality and appearance are good, but watch those output inductors. And don't get too rough with the power and speaker connectors as they aren't mechanically supported by anything other than their pins.
Date published: 2014-07-24
Rated 5 out of 5 by from Rebuit an old Marantz m250 with this amplifierI had an old Marantz m250 - 125wpc amplifier that after 25 years of never being shut down - ( repairs finally were no longer an option) but it had a 60 volt dual rail power supply that was rock solid with almost new 24,000uf filter caps and speaker protection circuit. Stripped it down and used the IRS2092 board. Results are excellent - much cleaner sound and lots more power - 250wpc and its running clean - even with a scope on the waveform - nice. Let it run hard( pretty much wide open with live recorded audio( so lots of compression) - for 2+ hours - with the small fan I added it stayed cool. No where near strained it. Total investment - right at $100 - including new speakon connectors, Neutrik power cord connectors, 1/4" Neutrik input connectors
Date published: 2014-02-25
Rated 5 out of 5 by from WOW!I own my own home recording studio. When the music stops, I don't want to hear any hiss or hum. I tried it and WOW!. It's now part of the studio. I'm running the amp on +/-60V with an Avel toroidal 40-40 transformer from Parts Express. If you hook up the transformer as shown on the cover, it will work but you will get a serious hum. Primary OK. Secondary use the black and yellow to the bridge rect. Red and orange to P-ground. Food for thought.
Date published: 2014-01-25
Rated 4 out of 5 by from Upgraded an old Shure with a Class-D SureI purchased the IRS2092 as a repair part for a 35 year old Shure Promaster PA/Mixer. I replaced the original amplifier cards with this amplifier and so far I am finding good results. I am powering it from the legacy bipolar 60 volt linear supply. I found it needed just a little help with cooling the heat sink. A small fan is likely more than good enough for the task.While I am impressed the audio quality, some of the solder quality could bit better and I was surprised to find that the printed circuit board is board on both axis.The documentation (on line only) was good enough to get me off the ground running. I found more complete documentation on the International Rectifier site for the IRAUDAMP7D reference design. The IRS2092 appears to be the surface mount version of this card with a few features (start up muting and bridged mono) left out. It does not appear that it would be rocket science to get bridge mono working on it although this is not supported by the manufacture.I would recommend thus card to others who want to experiment and experience a good Class-D reference design. The quality issues, although small, would not make this an appropriate product for use in commercial applications.If time and budget allow, I may upgrade the power original Shure (not Sure) Power supply to see how it affects performance.
Date published: 2013-08-06
Rated 5 out of 5 by from Raw power and bulletproof amplifier!I own several different Class-D amplifier boards from Parts Express and other sellers. Out of all of them, I feel that the 2x250W IRS2092 Class-D Amplifier Board is the best of the bunch.This board is almost a carbon copy of the Internal Rectifier AMP7D-200 reference board (aside from a few missing components). The amplifier board does not have the red "shutdown/overload" indicator LED's, nor does it have the TL071CP phase inverter op-amp required for mono bridge operation. The red LED indicators really are not necessary, so their omission is not a problem. The phase inverter op-amp would be needed ONLY if you planned to run this board as a bridged, mono amplifier. Otherwise, you don't need it.The board does, however, have all of the safety features of the reference board (over and under voltage shutdown, thermal shutdown, overcurrent shutdown and "DC on the speakers" shutdown). The board uses the correct IRFI4020H-117P power mosfets. Other boards like this (i.e. clones of the IRF reference board) use the cheaper IRFI4019 mosfet. By using the more powerful and rugged mosfet, the amplifier has a greater margin of safety and immunity to overloads.To use this amp board, I built a linear power supply using a toroidal power transformer, bridge rectifier and a pair of large electrolytic capacitors (see photo). This supply gives me +/- 60 volts DC.With this power supply, I can get 110 volts peak to peak audio output just before clipping starts. Doing the math, this means the amp can pump out 260 watts RMS per channel into 8 ohm loads. Into 4 ohm loads, you can get 520 watts RMS per channel! Interestingly, the heatsink gets warmest when the amplifier is idling and cools down a bit when pumping out full power.As I said in the title, this amplifier board is bulletproof. In the course of testing it, I've slipped a few times with the clip leads or oscilloscope probe and shorted an output to ground and shorted an output to one of the power supply rails. The blue "amplifier active" LED's went out and I thought "Oh NO I blew out my board!". But, when I powered it down and back up, it still worked!After that, I intentionally tried to see how much abuse the board could take. I shorted the outputs together, shorted them to ground, shorted them to the + and - power rails, connected the speaker outputs directly to the inputs, etc... The last test (shorting the outputs to the inputs) caused the amplifier to wildly oscillate at full power (if not clipping), then the circuit breaker in the power supply tripped. I reset the breaker. The amplifier still worked!If I absolutely had to say something negative about this amplifier board, it's that the factory gain of 40 (voltage gain, not DB) is not quite high enough for some audio sources (such as an iPod). However, this is easily remedied simply by adding two small resistors to the board to change the feedback loop ratio. I describe this modification in detail in a comment posted in the "Great for the price - runs cool" review above.In summary, I will say that in my opinion, this is the best amplifier board that Parts Express sells. It cleanly produces every watt of power that it's advertised to produce (and a bit more!), it's small, efficient, runs only warm, not hot and it's bulletproof. Short of a nuclear blast, I don't think anything can hurt this board. If you need lots of clean, reliable audio power, the 2x250W IRS2092 Class-D Amplifier Board is what you want!
Date published: 2013-07-20

Product Q&A

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who own this product or have experience with it.
If your question requires design or troubleshooting information,
please email tech@parts-expresss.com  for a prompt reply.
2x250W IRS2092 Class-D Amplifier Board

I need to run this in bridged mode and read the comments which stated it did not have the required inverter. Is this the unused IC U300? If so can it be installed and configured to then run in bridged mode? I am used to soldering SMT components.

Asked by: mike2014
This amp is not bridgeable. Any modifications of that nature would unfortunately void the warranty.
Answered by: Chrisf
Date published: 2014-12-06

Will this amp work with a 32-0-32 transformer?

Asked by: Darkstar52
No it will not.A 32-0-32 transformer will give you theoretically 32 X 1.414 or 45.3 volts DC on the capacitors. Counting voltage drop in the bridge rectifier and transformer windings, a more realistic multiplier is 1.3, so 32 X 1.3 = 41.6 volts DC at the capacitors (that is, your power supplied to the amp board would be 41.6-0-41.6 volts DC).The amp board has several protection circuits including an under and over voltage shutdown. The specified operating range for the board is 55 to 65 volts DC (plus and minus rails).Therefore, 41.6 volts is too low (less than 55) and the amp would not power up (i.e. come out of reset).The best transformer voltage to use with this amp and your own power supply is a 40-0-40 volt unit, either 500VA or 625VA. I would recommend either the Avel Y236804 500VA 40V+40V Toroidal Transformer (Part# 122-670) or the 625VA version (Part# 122-690), along with a suitable bridge rectifier and a pair of good capacitors at least 20,000 uF each and at least 63 WVDC.Hope this helps!
Answered by: RogerK
Date published: 2013-09-03

Power Supply Capacitance Requirement

I would like to build the 2 power supplies required for this amp. Can someone advise on the capacitance required per rail? I'm using a 40VAC-0-40VAC 600VA toroid, 25A/400V bridge rectifiers as recommended. I have 8,200uF/100V caps, and I was thinking of using 4 per rail, or 32,800uF. Is that enough, or overkill? Thanks.
Asked by: hongrn
Here is an excellent link to proper DC power supply design DC:http://www.changpuak.ch/electronics/power_supply_design.phpI am using 18,000 per 72 vdc rail which is a little low. Think about a soft-start circuit to bring the psu online slowly. Something like this:http://electronics-diy.com/soft-start-for-power-supply.phpSaves wear and tear the psu.One last circuit I used was to delay connecting the speakers to the amp for about 5 seconds and removes them immediately when the AC line power is removed from the amps power supply.These amps, at least mine, is brutal on speaker when powered down.Good luck!
Answered by: The Fixer
Date published: 2014-01-29

The mosfets are not working

I am injecting +-60VDC to the board but it does not work, the LED1B and LED1A does not light up. I am guesting there must be some sort of protection issue that is preventing the mosfet to work. I checked the protection system and it can not be over and under voltage and obviously its not over temp protection. could you help me with some trouble shooting ideas?
Asked by: Faraz
Mine would not run with less than +- 61.8 VDC for whatever reason. It now runs off +-72.5 VDC PSU and has been for months.Might be a bad amp board too you never know.Good luck!
Answered by: The Fixer
Date published: 2014-02-18

What is the best way to regulate the power output of one of these boards?

I am fairly new to designing my own system to power my speakers and am curious as to what the best way to control the volume of a 2 channel system using these speakers is. Should I simply have my outboard sound card outputting into the board? (I'm trying to avoid someone accidentally putting the volume to full and blowing the house down) Is there a good way to set an output limit?
Asked by: Oldmanfishaman
Good question! As you probably know, the 2x250W IRS2092 Class-D Amplifier Board has a fixed gain (a voltage gain of 40). That is, 1 volt RMS (1000 mV RMS) input produces 40 volts RMS output. You most certainly can drive this board directly from a PC sound card. This is exactly what I do and it works great. You will not need a "volume control" on your amplifier because the sound card output volume is already adjustable.Unfortunately, there is no way that I know of to _limit_ the output power. If your volume is set high and you accidentally output some music or sound, you will "blow the house down" (LOL!). Normally, this really isn't any problem from a hardware standpoint. If you overdrive (clip) the amplifier board, it will just jump into protection mode for a second, then reset - no harm done. If your speakers are rated 100 watts RMS each or better, a momentary overload should not hurt them.Most speakers are damaged by overheating the voice coil (from continuous operation beyond what they are rated for). The momentary overload should not burn out the voice coil. The only risk may be (for "cheap" speakers) a torn cone.The maximum output power of a Class-D amplifier is roughly proportional to the square of it's power supply voltage. Therefore, a lower power supply voltage will make the board clip sooner and this will reduce your maximum output power. However, this board is specified to operate with a power supply** of 55-0-55 volts to 65-0-65 volts. This is a rather small range and not useful as a "power limiter".Also, since this board has many self protection features (including an over and under voltage cutoff circuit), operating it outside the power supply specs will simply prevent it from turning on. In conclusion, I would say that you really need not worry about damaging anything from a momentary over volume condition. The hardware can take it. Hope this helps you!**Note: These numbers refer to the plus and minus DC power supply to the amplifier, NOT the power transformer. A suitable power transformer spec for this amplifier is a 40-0-40, 500VA unit such as the Avel Y236804 500VA 40V+40V Toroidal Transformer (Part# 122-670).
Answered by: RogerK
Date published: 2014-12-06

Reduce input power requirements

Which components would I need to replace in order to use this board with PSUs under 20 VDC? I imagine that the resistors and the 4 largest capacitors, at the very least, will need changed but what about the inductors?I realize that doing so would essentially make this a different amp and is probably not worth the effort but I probably have the necessary components and it will just collect dust otherwise.
Asked by: P Fitz
I think you are right, probably not worth the effort when a lighter weight amp that will be happy sub 20vdc could be had for under $30...
Answered by: The Fixer
Date published: 2014-11-26


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