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2x100W TDA7498 Class-D Amplifier Board

Brand:| Model: AA-AB32189
Product Video
Overview
DIY audiophiles rejoice! This 2 x 100W Class-D amplifier board is perfect for two-channel critical listening.
Highlights
  • 2 x 100W Class D amplifier
  • Small footprint for space limited applications
  • Perfect amplifier for dedicated stereo use
  • Built-in cooling fan and over-temp protection circuit
  • 14 to 39 VDC power supply required
Part # 
320-303
Weight: 0.87 lbs.  
IN STOCK
List Price$39.99
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$34.90
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Part # 320-303
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Product Details

2x100W TDA7498 Class-D Amplifier Board

This amplifier board features a state-of-the-art, dual channel Class-D TDA7498 IC, which delivers up to 100 watts per channel. The small 3.6" wide by 4.8" long footprint allows this amplifier board to be used in many applications were size constraints limit the use of conventional amplifiers. Just add a 14 to 39 VDC power supply, signal source, and speakers!

A low noise cooling fan is mounted atop the robust heatsink to maximize heat dissipation. Thermal, over/under voltage, and current protection circuits are also included to extend the longevity of the amplifier board. Four fixed gain settings are available to allow for volume control at the source, and stereo RCA line-level inputs are pre-attached. Mounting holes are provided as is a 2.5 mm x 5.5 mm power jack for quick connection. Screw-down phoenix-type terminals are included for quick speaker wire connection.

Features:
• Class-D amplifier topology featuring TDA7498 amplifier IC
• Heatsink with attached fan
• Pre-drilled mounting holes
• Over-temperature, over/under voltage, and over current protection circuits
• Phoenix-type speaker terminals
• Line-level RCA input

Specifications:
• Power output (w/ 36 VDC power supply): 100W x 2 (6 ohms, THD 10%), 80W x 2 (8 ohms, THD 10%), 78W x 2 (6 ohms, THD 1%)
• Frequency response: 22 to 22,000 Hz
• Minimum impedance: 4 ohms
• Recommended power supply: 14 to 39 VDC, 6A regulated
• Fixed gain settings: 25.6 dB, 31.6 dB, 35.1 dB, 37.6 dB
• Power input jack: 2.5 x 5.5 mm, center-positive
• Dimensions: 4.8" L x 3.6" W x 1.4" H



Product Specifications
  • Special FeaturesBoard Only Module
2x100W TDA7498 Class-D Amplifier Board
  • BrandParts Express
  • ModelAA-AB32189
  • Part Number320-303
  • UPC844632096686
  • Product CategoryHome Audio Amplifiers
  • Unit of MeasureEA
  • Product Rating
    (8 Reviews)
  • Weight0.87 lbs.
  • California Prop 65

    Warning: California residents only. Please note per Proposition 65 that this product contains chemicals known to the State of California to cause cancer and birth defects or other reproductive harm.

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Reviews

2x100W TDA7498 Class-D Amplifier Board
2x100W TDA7498 Class-D Amplifier Board is rated 4.5 out of 5 by 8.
Rated 5 out of 5 by from I am truely impressedOkay, I RARELY bother to write reviews on anything. I feel compelled to do so with this unit. I purchased this to be used on my computer as a mini amp. I had a spare 12v (which puts out 14V) power supply and thought "what the heck".Blown away is the only thing I can say. Powerful, great range, EASY to set up, and so simple for what it does. I took out a receiver I was using, put this unit in a simple small vented box, and you don't even know it's there, until of course I crank up the sound!You won't be disappointed.
Date published: 2012-06-28
Rated 4 out of 5 by from Preliminary reviewI bought this for a project like the "podzuma" portable speaker. My goal is a portable speaker system that can be placed anywhere and operate with or without a power source. Well the amp arrived today and even though I'm not ready to start the build I couldn't resist a listen and pulled out my trusty set of Optimus Minimus 7s. As far as power I had a unregulated "wall wart" with the correct plug and 12v (tested 14V) @1000mA. I'm impressed! It plays pretty loud and is very punchy considering the low power. Sound is clean considering but not as clear as with some of the Tripath biased chip amps.Regardless I am still very excited about this build and this little amp. I think I may choose to run this @ 24V as I already have a spare battery and a 24V 4A regulated power supply. Can't wait for the rest of the parts to come in.
Date published: 2012-03-21

Product Q&A

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who own this product or have experience with it.
If your question requires design or troubleshooting information,
please email tech@parts-expresss.com  for a prompt reply.
2x100W TDA7498 Class-D Amplifier Board

Can I run a turntable through this or do I need a preamp?

Asked by: andykill
Unless the turntable has a line out with a way of controlling the volume you will have to have a preamp for this.
Answered by: MattP
Date published: 2014-01-20

what is the recommended power supply for this amp???

Asked by: jukebox
The power supply we recommend is below.
Answered by: MattP
Date published: 2013-11-01

what is the load that the source will see (4/8/16 Ohm),

I want to wire four of these together and I need to know what the source would see.
Asked by: Lord
This question is very vague and sounds like you were meaning to post it as a question for speakers. Not sure what you mean by wiring "four of these together".This amp will "See" what ever load the speakers connected to it are rated for. If you connect one 8 ohm speaker per channel the amp will see 8 ohms.
Answered by: Nemisius
Date published: 2013-10-10

Can a toroidal power transformer be used with this amp? And if so, wich one would be recomened? Is it hooked up derictly to the amp board?

Asked by: Danny603
Yes you can use a toroidal power supply as long as the output is 12 - 36VDC. I tested mine with a Russound 1201A 12VDC 1 Amp power supply and it worked quite well. Later I connected a 6 amp 24VDC laptop power supply and have been using that ever since. No specific recommendation as i used available parts but it can be connected directly to the board.
Answered by: Nemisius
Date published: 2014-02-06

mute, standby and, vcc?

do you solder on the Two Conductor Screw Terminals and wire them to a switch? or how does that work? also what is vcc.
Asked by: John W
Yes you can solder 5mm screw terminals (PE# 320-3370) to the board, then wire to switches. Then again for a more permanent set-up, skip the terminals and solder the wire directly to the board and add some hot glue/epoxy to provide strain relief.The STBY and MUTE are active low (GND) and they already have pull-up resistors and basic switch de-bouncing on board, so just adding switches will be fine.The VCC/GND combo, is for daisy chaining amplifier boards together. It is directly connected the power source and ground of the power supply you plug in.Aside:VCC is generally understood as the positive or high side voltage rail (V+). The letters represent how you would connect power to a NPN Bipolar Transistor. So VCC would be connected to the Collector Pin and ground (V- or VEE) to the Emiter Pin. The the introduction of CMOS they added VDD and VSS for drain and source; ie positive and ground (some might argue that this seems backwards or trivial, but it has stuck as convention).VCC, VDD, V+ = Positive Rail (High Side)VEE, VSS, V-, GND = Negative Rail (Low Side)
Answered by: JDoyner
Date published: 2013-09-29

What voltage does the cooling fan run on? If the only available supply is 12V DC or 36V DC is there any way to run the fan?

Asked by: TripleJ
Looking at the schematic (link is under the Manual/Resources) There are four linear voltage regulators on this board, for 5VDC, 3.3VDC, and then two for the fan. According to the resistor values the fan is getting under 3.3VDC.
Answered by: JDoyner
Date published: 2013-08-12

Is everything pre-assembled or will I have to do soldering, etc?

Is this totally plug-and-play or not?Thanks,Bob
Asked by: RoberttheNewbie
There are terminals for the power supply and speakers. RCA jacks for your input. About as plug and play as they get!Enjoy.
Answered by: The Fixer
Date published: 2013-08-06

Fan noise?

Have noticed an increased amount of fan noise on this board, to the point that I can hear it over low level of music coming from the system this powers. It's inside a wood cabinet with an open back. Any tips?
Asked by: Matt317
I would recommend checking for dust build up around the fan or heat sink cooling fins. As long as there is sufficient air flow around the fan the only other problem could possibly be fan bearings going bad.
Answered by: MattP
Date published: 2013-09-07

Separate channel level controls

I just purchased the TDA7498 as my first audio project. The manual doesn't appear to match this particular model. The schematic for volume control shows four dip switches under section 2.5. The board itself only has two dip switches, which tells me you can't control the volume of each channel independently. The print on the board itself appears to confirm this. Is there a way to do this with an external board?
Asked by: Matt317
You are correct that you cannot control the volume of each channel independently. PE sells a very nice volume control board for this amp(see below), however this two does not allow for independent control. You will either have to build a preamp.Be SURE to search for schematics of the board and volume control board before you build your own. The information is out there. As an example the TDA7498 datasheet has an example application circuit that is very close to this board's layout. If you purchase the volume board, be sure to look at my review for chip sets and pointers.Best of luck
Answered by: JDoyner
Date published: 2013-07-09

What is the right way to power this by battery?

Lots of "Will this or that work?" as far as batteries.and this board goes. My question is, what is the ideal way to power this by battery? Think space, weight, expense, type of battery. Explain options to me like I am a 6 year old.
Asked by: Spaker
There are a lot of options that will work because this depends entirely on your specific application. With a voltage range starting at 14 VDC you will have to use two batteries wired in series to achieve the proper voltage. The size and type of battery depends on how much play time you want from it and weight.
Answered by: MattP
Date published: 2013-06-27

What is the difference?

There are 2 each 100 watt X 2 channel class d amp boards.one is about 34 and the other 39 bucks .what is the difference between them? Here >>>>>>>>>> 2x100W @ 4 Ohm TK2050 Class-D Audio Amplifier Board OnlyBrand: Parts Express | Model: AA-AB32186=====320-303 : 2x100W TDA7498 Class-D Amplifier Board2x100W TDA7498 Class-D Amplifier BoardBrand: Parts Express | Model: AA-AB32189
Asked by: clod
The main difference between the boards are the Amplifer Chipset.PE# 320-334 2x100W uses:2 x TK2050 STEREO 50W (8Ω) DIGITAL AUDIO AMPLIFIER with parallel outputs.PE# 320-303 2x100W uses:TDA7498 100-watt + 100-watt dual BTL class-D audio amplifierI suggest checking the data sheets on these ICs for a more detailed break down of function and SQ based on your desired application.More surface differences include:Power Supply RequiredTK2050 - 12 to 32 VDCTDA7498 - 14 to 39 VDCVolume ControlTK2050 - Provide an external volume controlTDA7498 - Compatible with Rotary Encoder + Volume Control Board (PE# 320-318)Broken Out FunctionsTK2050 - MuteTDA7498 - Mute and StandbySize (L x W x H in mm)TK2050 - 148.3 × 106.8 × 35.5TDA7498 - 121.9 x 91.4 x 35.6Best of luck in your decision.
Answered by: Doyne5
Date published: 2013-10-12

Use in a Bi-amped system?

I was wondering if the PWM output of the D-class amp will be able to run a high power speaker (I'm looking into various Eminence woofers) without a passive crossover. I know that the passive crossover converts the PWM to a sine waveform, but will the speakers work with the PWM signal, if they do will there be a reduction in quality? Thanks.
Asked by: James M
I think you are mixing up the power supply with with the amp's output. A passive crossover does not PWM to a sine waveform it is used to separate specific frequencies to route to a woofer, mid-range speaker or tweeter. While the process of amplification is digital the output is analog in nature. This amp will be able to power any speaker that is between 4 to 16 ohms. If you are building your own speaker system you will need a crossover for to provide the correct frequency range to the specific speaker. This can either be part of the speaker design or, in the example of a bi-amp system, would have to be done at the line level prior to connecting to the amplifier. For example: Bi-amping is the use of two channels of amplification to power each loudspeaker within an audio system. Typically, each channel of amplification powers a single driver (e.g. a tweeter or a woofer). Bi-amping differs in this respect from the conventional arrangement in which each channel of amplification powers a complete speaker, typically consisting of a crossover network and two or more drivers.[1] The term derives from the prefix bi-, meaning 'two', and amp, a contraction of 'amplifier'.Bi-amping of a pair of stereo speakers requires four channels of amplification and can be accomplished using two ordinary two-channel (stereo) amplifiers in either a vertical or horizontal arrangement.Hope this helps.
Answered by: Nemisius
Date published: 2013-04-03

Is there anyway to attach a volume control knob and/or a power switch?

I'd like to use this for a custom stereo install but would definitely like to control the volume and have an on/off switch on the amp.
Asked by: JH1234
There is a volume control board for this amp with blinky lights and all. PE carries it (320-318).If you are looking for more features (ie tone control), and you have soldering skills. PE also carries a preamp kit with volume, and tone (320-176). Also be aware of the 12 VAC x2 power requirements.Then again you can build your own line level attenuator (volume control) with dual ganged 50kohm Audio Taper Potentiometer (023-650) and some resistors. Do a little web searching (diy volume control).Your fourth option is to skip the volume control all together. Just use the volume on your input device. For example I'm currently building an ipod boom box with the other 2x100W Sure Amp (320-334) and plan on using the ipod's volume for control.To turn the amp on/off, you just have to add a switch to your power supply. Go figure, PE sells those also.Best of luck on your project
Answered by: Doyne5
Date published: 2012-12-28

Is it possible to use this amp with 4 ohms on 1 ch & 8 ohms on the other?

Asked by: Aeon
Yes, however the results will vary on your doing this. If you are bi-amping and using one channel for the woofer, and the other for the tweeter - you will be fine. If you are running two full range speakers - one 4 ohms and the other 8 ohms, the power supply will be working harder to take care of the 4 ohm load and you might hear some anomolies between the two speakers. If in different rooms - probably not an issue. If you can provide more information - I can help you better.
Answered by: MarkAJH
Date published: 2012-09-13

Can this amp be bridged?

Asked by: arggg
No there are mono are Sure Block amps for that.
Answered by: Power2Choose
Date published: 2012-07-17

12v inverted, then inverted back

I've already got a 35Ah 12V agm battery and a 400 watt dc to ac inverter for it. Would I be golden I simply plug this amp into the inverter with a 24V power supply? (and, would you recommend any?)
Asked by: dal1
This probably wouldn't work very well. Most inverters produce modified sinewave power outputs, rather than the pure (or mostly pure) sinewave power that you get from a wall outlet. Basically, instead of a sinewave the inverter is producing a bunch of square waves to make a rough approximation of a sinewave. A Google image search should show you what I mean. Pure sinewave inverters do exist, and they produce power that is just as good as household power, but they're very expensive.The problem with modified sinewave inverters is that their power output has a LOT of noise in it, so noise-sensitive devices like amplifiers or computers generally don't run that well with them. Some of these devices even specifically say not to use them with a modified sinewave inverter (for example, some computers randomly crash when being powered by them). The noise from the inverter will get transferred into the amp's audio output, which will sound bad. The extent of the noise will depend on the quality of the 24V supply that you use, but it will be quite hard to find/build a power supply that can adequately filter out the noise to audio-grade levels. If you don't mind buying the 24V supply anyways, you could just try it to see if the noise levels are low enough for you, but chances are they won't be.You could just try connecting the amp directly to the battery, but there are 2 issues with that: 1. The specs list a 14V minimum for the power supply, so there's a chance that the 12V battery won't even turn it on (or will have trouble keeping it on as the battery drains). 2. You'll be getting very little power output from the amp. You only get the output powers listed in the specs when using a 36V supply. With a 12V supply, you'd be getting an absolute maximum of 18W/channel, assuming 4 ohm speakers (let me know if you want to know the reason for these numbers).Another option would be to get a 2nd 12V battery, wire them in series, and power the amp with that. That would get you around 80W/channel with 4 ohm speakers.
Answered by: eboyer
Date published: 2012-07-18

Can I use a 36V lithium battery with this amp?

Charge voltage of most 36V lithium batteries is 42V. Some electronics can handle slightly beyond stated maximums (this amp's user guide says 40V max) so it seems like it might be able to handle an extra 2V.I know I could just simply charge the lithium batteries up to 40V, but that means wasted capacity.Would it work with 42V or would that trip the over voltage protection?
Asked by: jonnyboy
Are you going to charge the battery while connected to the amp? If so I would be concerned, however just hooking it up to the battery should be ok. The voltage of the battery is going to drop as soon as a load (the amp) is connected.
Answered by: Ranger635
Date published: 2012-11-20

Is it possible to wire the amp like this for a 2.1 stereo system?

Asked by: Dewald
I use 2ch of amp to achieve 2.1 using a DVC subwoofer and two sets of passive cross overs. There is some work to doing this, but you can achieve good results. It may be easier to look for a 2.1 plate amp if you want to save time.
Answered by: johnchen16
Date published: 2012-11-20

Will this work with 2 12V Sealed Lead Acid Batteries wired in a Series?

Asked by: sly197
The amp will work with the two lead acid batteries in series but it's rated output is with 36VDC input, so you would be looking at less then rated output with only 24V nominal input that the batteries supply.Bump it up to 3 lead acid batteries in series and problem solved. ;)
Answered by: mtg90
Date published: 2012-11-20

Is this amplifier board an improved design?

The original version of this board received mixed reviews, having had some stability and distortion problems that were fixed by minor changes in input capacitors and output filter components. Have the suggested improvements been incorporated by Sure into the current product? The most cogent reviewer was an engineer named Trevor Marshall, and his review is available on the web in PDF format.I admit that the unmodified performance of the original product may have been adequate, but the suggested improvements caused significantly better electrical performance. How the original and modified versions actually SOUNDED was not addressed, however.
Asked by: Doc Jones
it has good high frequency response .. old limits were 200 hz..
Answered by: digitalhaven 53
Date published: 2012-10-12

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